Going on the Grand Tour of Kaohsiung City
Kaohsiung city, once home to the world's No.3 container port, has been transformed to a top cultural destination in Taiwan.
KAOHSIUNG, Taiwan—Since Kaohsiung city hosted the 2022 Creative Expo Taiwan earlier this month, it was transformed from a harbour city that was once named the world’s No.3 container port to a top cultural destination.
On the occasion of the Creative Expo, alongside the Taiwan Design Expo that will be held in October, Kaohsiung has opened up a number of historic sites throughout the city. Many of these places have recently been renovated and are opening its door to the public for the first time, turning the city into an open-air museum full of cultural wonders.
As someone who is enthusiastic about arts and culture, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to go on this grand tour — more precisely, a self-sought rite of passage — to discover what the city has to offer.
NO 1. North Signal Tower
North Signal Tower, Kaohsiung City
Like an air control responsible for airplanes on the runway surfaces, a signal tower ensures that the train operates safely over the correct route by means of railway signals and block system.
Located near Hamasen light rail station, North Signal Tower (北號誌樓) is one of the most important relics of Taiwan’s railway culture for it has the only remaining non-automated interlocking system in the country. In signalling field, railway interlocking device helps to prevent collisions of trains through an arrangement of track devices, such as switches and crossings.
Originally named as the Kaohsiung Signal Tower, North Signal Tower was mainly responsible for south-bound trains that passed through the Kaohsiung Port station. Constructed in 1923, it was one of the many towers of its kind built throughout Taiwan during the colonial period.
Interlocking device (right) extends to the tracks outside the signal tower (left)
In 2010, North Signal Tower was listed as the Municipal Monument of Kaohsiung. On the exterior, this Japanese-style building has its upper level painted in nostalgic mint-green colour.
The room in the ground floor is set up like the lounge room where employees used to take their break. Inside, a huge screen presents a pre-recorded interview with former railway employees recounting their past experience and memories when working at the tower.
The non-automated interlocking system, which can still be operated today, is found inside what used to be the control room on the upper floor. The apparatus extends down to the ground floor, then to the train tracks outside — part of the tracks has been repurposed for the city’s circular light rail today.
It’s fascinating when I — standing inside this century-old signal tower — look out the window to the light rail that’s steadily passing by, as if I had accidentally entered a wormhole and travelled through time.
North Signal Tower
Address: NO. 32, Gushan 1st Rd., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Exhibition Time: 2022/7/30–10/23
NO 2. Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall
As its name suggests, Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall (原愛國婦⼈會館) is a place where women’s dedication in the name of patriotism is honoured.
Built in 1922, this imposing red brick mansion provided a place of gathering for local women, until it was later converted to a branch of the Patriotic Women’s Association Hall for philanthropy and social-related affairs. In 2004, the building was listed as the city’s Municipal Monument.
Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall, Kaohsiung City
The building is one of the rare examples of western-style red-brick architecture from the colonial period. Besides the conspicuous red bricks, scented luanta fir was also used — an appropriate choice of material for this space designated for women.
To draw visitors’ attention to its unique architectural features, light projection is used on both the building’s interior and exterior, from the floor to the walls. Near the entrance, for instance, a light projection that writes “since 1961” is found near a red-cross motif on the floor, reminding us that the place was once used as a Red Cross Nursery Centre in post-war period.
Light projection indicates architectural features of Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall
Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall was built at a time when women were considered a minority group in the society. But today, after more than 90 years, not only has the building been renovated, women’s roles have also changed. There’s perhaps no other venue as fitting as the Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall to showcase Ms. Perfume — a contemporary art exhibition that is about the women, and for the women.
Ms. Perfume at Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall
Address: NO.28, Dengshan St., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Exhibition Time: 2022/8/4–10/23
NO 3. Kaohsiung Harbour Museum
Not far from KW2 — one of the city’s most popular attractions — is the Kaohsiung Harbour Museum (高雄港港史館) that witnesses the development of Kaohsiung Harbour over the last century.
Built in 1916, Kaohsiung Harbour Museum is a British-style brick architecture. The building once served as Customs office, Harbour Affairs Bureau, and was used for other government affairs until it was converted to a museum in 2002.
Kaohsiung Harbour Museum, Kaohsiung city
On view at the Kaohsiung Harbour Museum is K Port 100+, a future-bound exhibition that invites visitors to get on board on an exclusive journey from the Takao Harbour Exhibition in 1931 to the Kaohsiung World Exhibition in 2031.
In response to this time span of 100 years, the exhibition traces 100 questions, alongside their corresponding answers, related to the city. Thanks to the power of design, K Port 100+ is an informative visual database for historians, designers, and visitors at large to learn about the dynamism of Kaohsiung city through its past, present and future.
Inside the exhibition ‘K Port 100+’ at the Kaohsiung Harbour Museum
K Port 100+ at Kaohsiung Harbour Museum
Address: NO.3, Penglai Rd., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Exhibition Time: 2022/8/3–10/23
NO 4. Hamasen Trader Building
When Taiwan was under Japanese rule, the Hamasen Trader Building (哈瑪星貿易商大樓) was an upscale hotel. The location of the building was prospered by nearby Kaohsiung Harbour and West Coast line, earning itself the nickname “First Financial Street of Kaohsiung”. Today, the Hamasen district remains an important historical area of the city.
The Hamasen Trader Building is notable for its washed granolithic finish on the exterior, with its doors and windows built out of wood. Following its renovation in 2017, the building reopened in 2018 as a venue for exhibitions and cultural events.
Exhibition “Ice Festival in Kaohsiung” (left) inside the Hamasen Trader Building (right)
On the occasion of the 2022 Creative Expo, an exhibition titled Ice Festival is held on the second floor of the Hamasen Trader Building, tracing the city’s century-old ice treats industry and how it has evolved to become part of the local’s culinary culture that one can’t live without.
Ice Festival at Hamasen Trader Building
Address: 2F, NO. 5, Linhai 3rd Rd., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Exhibition Time: 2022/7/5–10/30
NO 5. Red Brick House
Red Brick House in Hamasen District 1-chome
Not far from the Hamasen Trader Building is the Red Brick House (新濱町一丁目連棟紅磚街屋) — a 90-year-old building that is now open after restoration.
The Red Brick House was selected as the venue for an exhibition about local product design, which showcases more than 300 produce and products from across Kaohsiung. On top of their cultural-inspired products concepts, their beautiful packaging design are also worthwhile to take a look.
Red Brick House in Hamasen District 1-chome
Address: NO. 2,4,6,6–1, Binhai 1st Rd., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City, Taiwan Exhibition Time: 2022/7/27–10/30
This article presents only a brief introduction to a number of historic sites in Kaohsiung city that are now open to the public. The sequence in which they are presented here in the order of my preference, with No.1 being my favourite.
There’s still so much more that I can share about these places, particularly the exhibition Ms. Perfume at Former Patriotic Women’s Association Hall, and K Port 100+ on view at the Kaohsiung Harbour Museum. I look forward to writing the article individually if time allows.
In the meantime, if you are planning a trip to Kaohsiung, make sure you save time for visiting these historic sites for it is uncertain whether they will stay open after October. On the contrary, if you have already visited these places like I did, feel free to share your experience and thoughts :)
For more information about these historic sites and the exhibitions, visit the link here.