In Kanazawa: An Evening with Geisha
To truly experience Kanazawa, take a stroll through the historic chaya streets after sunset. The warm glow of lanterns illuminates the teahouses, setting the scene for a geisha experience of a lifetime.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
Meet Lady Baba, the landlady of the Kaikaro teahouse in Kanazawa’s Higashi Chaya District and the gracious host of Geisha Evenings®. Image courtesy of Geisha Evenings
KANAZAWA, Japan — For visitors to Kanazawa, the allure of the historic chaya districts is impossible to overlook — a top destination that provides a glimpse into the entertainment districts of Edo Japan.
Chaya, meaning “teahouse,” has been longstanding venue for feasts and entertainment since the Edo period (1603-1868), where the beauty and artistry of geishas captivated nobles and affluent patrons alike.
In Kanazawa, three remarkable chaya districts have endured the test of time: Higashi Chaya, Nishi Chaya, and Kazuemachi Chaya.
The traditional wooden teahouses lining cobblestone pathways meander through picturesque lanes. Adorned with fine latticed windows and sliding doors, these teahouses recount tales of geishas and samurais, immersing curious visitors in the wonder of Kanazawa’s cultural legacy.
Amidst the hushed whispers of these clandestine rendezvous, tea ceremonies unfolded like delicate performances, casting a spell of ritual and reverence into the air.
Wealthy merchants and samurais frequented these enigmatic establishments; they were not only drawn by the enchanting allure of geishas, masters in the rhythmic dance of music and poetry, but also by the promise of immersing in one-of-a-kind cultural communion.
Beyond venues of entertainment, these chaya districts stood as intersections where art and culture converged. Serving as the silent guardians of tradition, they persist today as vital institutions, weaving the threads of traditional Japanese arts into the very fabric of Kanazawa’s distinctive identity.
By day, Higashi Chaya District warmly welcomes curious visitors eager to catch a glimpse of the vibrant entertainment district of Edo Japan.
During the day…
In contrast to Kyoto’s Gion District, the ochaya, or “teahouse,” in Kanazawa exudes an entirely different atmosphere.
Of the three remaining chaya districts, Higashi Chaya reigns as the largest — and arguably the most renowned — in Kanazawa.
Higashi Chaya District, or “Eastern Teahouse District,” was established in 1820, concurrently with the Nishi Chaya District, or “Western Teahouse District.” This development coincided with a time when geisha houses in central Kanazawa were compelled to relocate away from the city centre. The Kazuemachi Chaya District, located just across the Asano River from Higashi Chaya, did not come into existence until 1869.
Today, Higashi Chaya District boasts a small piazza, a museum, and a lineage of shops dating back to the Edo period. Its avenue is adorned with cafes and shops showcasing regional specialities, where the ubiquity of gold leaves is striking. From arts and crafts to cosmetics, face masks, coffee, and even ice cream, the shimmering touch of gold infuses every facet of this charming district.
As you wander down its main street, you’ll stumble upon well-preserved teahouses, their timeworn walls echoing tales from centuries past. To the unsuspecting passerby, these establishments go unnoticed in the daylight, with their doors kept closed.
If luck is on your side, there’s a chance you might catch the elusive sight of a geisha navigating to and from her enigmatic world — a moment so enchanting that it leaves you wondering if it was all but a dream.
At night, the Higashi Chaya District is lit by lanterns on the doorsteps of historic teahouses.
As the night falls…
While the majority of tourists explore these districts during the day, I highly recommend experiencing them at night. This isn't just to escape the daytime crowd but to truly savour the atmosphere as these places come alive after dusk.
As the sun sets on the horizon, the chayas are bathed in the soft glow of lanterns adorning their doorsteps. In the blink of an eye, the once tourist-filled streets become empty, as if they’ve surrendered to matters of greater importance.
The latticed windows, concealing the rows of teahouses during the day, transform into tantalising screens illuminated from within, beckoning you to peer through and unveil the wonders within.
While many teahouses open exclusively to a select clientele, tourists are welcomed to immerse themselves in an air of exclusivity and mystique at Kaikaro, one of the teahouses found at the heart of Higashi Chaya District.
Built in 1820, Kaikaro is nestled among the rows of “chaya”, or teahouses, dotting the main street of the Higashi Chaya District.
Channeling the spirit of a samurai, I took a deep breath and ventured into Kaikaro. Upon entering, I awaited service in the intimate confines of this historical teahouse, anticipating a glimpse into the refined elegance of Edo Japanese culture.
First, I was led to a tearoom, where the aroma of matcha tea wafted through the air. The other guests were already seated — I was the last to arrive.
A server entered the rom to prepare my matcha tea, following tradition and rules. She then offered to sprinkle some gold leaves — a craft for which the city of Kanazawa is known — onto my tea. I agreed without hesitation.
Time seemed to stand still inside the room, as strangers exchanged glances — some managed to strike up conversations, while others remained silent. Despite the closed doors, the click-clack of geta sandals on the floor added a rhythmic charm to the atmosphere.
After finishing our tea, we were led upstairs to a room where geisha traditionally perform for their customers. But tonight was different: it was Geisha Evenings in Kanazawa.
A geisha plays samisen, a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument, played with a plectrum called a bachi.
The taiko drum performance marks the pinnacle of the Geisha Evening.
As the largest teahouse in Kanazawa, Kaikaro has been hosting public Geisha performances since 2014, taking place in spring and autumn. Throughout the show, the air was filled with the mesmerising artistry of Geisha dance, sanmisen melodies, and taiko drum beats.
In the intervals between acts, Lady Baba, the owner of Kaikaro, delivered informative and entertaining speeches on the teahouse and Geisha culture, providing us with a glimpse into this unique Japanese culture.
According to Lady Baba, this 200-year-old teahouse boasts a remarkable 105 sliding paper doors, allowing for a dynamic transformation of its space. Among its exclusive offerings are the opulent Red Room and the distinguished Blue Room, reserved for VIP guests seeking an extraordinary experience.
Today in Kanazawa, geishas span an age range from 19 to 89, with the oldest among them celebrated for her extraordinary skills — a beloved figure among patrons.
Lady Baba illuminated the beauty rituals of geisha, revealing the authenticity of her own hair, which requires a daily salon visit at eight o’clock in the morning. Covered in lead white powder, the geishas’ faces would have exuded radiance in spaces softly lit by candlelight during a time when electricity was absent. Lady Baba’s obi, the traditional sash, measuring over two metres, added to her allure.
Securing entry to Kaikaro is an exclusive affair, requiring referrals as the golden ticket. Payment, once collected every 6 months, now takes place every three months, with Lady Baba reaching out to the client’s guarantor in case of delayed payments.
Lady Baba (left) plays Konpira with a geisha (right). Konpira is a Japanese party or drinking game played by geishas with their clients at teahouses.
The player who loses in the game is required to consume a cup of sake.
After the show, Lady Baba invited us to explore the rest of Kaikaro, particularly her special tearoom on the ground floor. Notably, this room features tatami woven with delicate gold threads, casting a soft metallic sheen throughout the space.
By the time I left the teahouse, it was already past seven. Stepping onto the street, I discovered the chaya streets cloaked in darkness. This sensation eludes verbal expression, offering a distinctive departure from the bustling touristy vibe that envelops the chaya streets in broad daylight.
That said, I believe that the evening is arguably the optimal time to explore the area, as it imparts a truly unique atmosphere to the chaya: mysterious, untouchable, but profoundly intimate. While it might appear intimidating for solo travellers, the experience is a must if you find yourself in Kanazawa — it’s the hour when the teahouses, the very heart of these chaya streets, come to life.
Visitors lingering among these timeless lanes and centuries-old buildings would find themselves transported to a bygone era. Here, the delicate dance of geishas and the art of tea brewing weave a spell that enchants all who venture into the heart of Kanazawa's cultural fabric.
The allure of Kanazawa’s Chaya Districts extends beyond mere architectural beauty; it lies in the meticulous preservation of customs and traditions, among them the enduring legacy of refined arts and timeless hospitality has withstood the test of time.
Even if you missed the opportunity to secure a seat at Kaikaro's evening show, a leisurely wander through any chaya street in the city treats you to the faint sound of shamisen and kagebue, literally known as the “shadow flute,” amidst the laughter of faceless patrons and geishas.
The tatami in this tea room at Kaikaro Teahouse is intricately woven with gold threads.
Adorning the wall of Kaikaro Teahouse is this hanging scroll, depicting a geisha gracefully placing a hand drum on her shoulder.
Tips for wanderer — for those interested in visiting the chaya stricts, Kanazawa has three chaya districts:
Higashi Chaya District: This is the largest and most famous geisha district in Kanazawa. Known for its beautifully preserved teahouses and traditional wooden buildings, Higashi Chaya District is home to Shima Teahouse, designated as Japan’s Important Cultural Asset, and Kaikaro. Both teahouses open their doors to the public during the day, providing a window into the entertainment world of Edo Japan.
Nishi Chaya District: Smaller than Higashi Chaya, Nishi Chaya is yet another geisha district, offering a more laid-back yet equally intimate ambiance.
Kazuemachi Chaya District: Though not as well-known as the other two, Kazuemachi Chaya is equally charming. It features picturesque streets along the Asano River, with some teahouses offering scenic views of the water.
For those interested in attending the Geisha Evening show or learning more about geisha culture in Kanazawa, visit the website Geisha Evenings.