Season of Camellia in Taipei’s Secret Garden

A secret garden — also known as Taipei’s backyard garden — holds the key to the cultivation of camellia in the northern part of this beautiful isle once called Formosa. Located near the Yangmingshan National Park, this garden, officially known as the Floriculture Experiment Centre welcomed camellias and azaleas when they were first introduced to Taiwan during the mid-20th century. The slightly acidic soil and the year-round mist makes the centre an ideal place for floriculture.

Inside Floriculture Experiment Centre, Taipei City

The Floriculture Experiment Centre (FEC) covers an area of 10 acres and is divided into various sections, ranging from Japanese Black Pine to Cherry Blossom, and Native Azalea to Camellia Garden. Over the decades, the centre has collected more than 500 species of camellia, and is designated as the most important place in Taiwan where camellia seeds are preserved.

Each January, a multitude of camellia flowers come into bloom, calling for visitors to discover the beauty and varieties of camellias treasured by its esteemed keeper. Aiming to research, cultivate, preserve and promote floriculture, the FEC hosts the annual Taipei Camellias Show, inviting anthophiles to come and admire this captivating flower at peak bloom.

“…even a prestigious peony in full bloom can’t be compared to the beauty of red camellias.”

Commonly referred to as cha hua in Chinese, camellia flowers have been cultivated and treasured in the East for millennia. The Compendium of Materia Medica or Ben Cao Gang Mu (本草綱目) — the most comprehensive book ever written in the history of traditional Chinese medicine — describes camellia as flowers that flourish in the south and bloom in late winter with red petals and yellow stamens.

Entrance to 2022 Taipei Camellias Show

Originated from Yunnan and Sichuan provinces, the charm of camellias inspired poets and painters alike. Tang-dynasty poet Si Kong Tu (837–908), in praise of camellias, commented that even a prestigious peony in full bloom can’t be compared to the beauty of red camellias. Song-dynasty poet Su Shi (1037–1101), better known as Su Dong Po, compares the vivid coloration of a red camellia to fire burning in winter snow. Similar to plum blossoms, camellia is not only valued for its beauty, but also its perseverance through harsh conditions of winter times.

At Taipei Camellias Show, camellia blooms in a myriad of colours, including white, different shades of pink, red, and so on. As the writer wanders through this picturesque garden, I find myself entering a forest of camellia trees. It turns out that camellias can be shrubs or trees. In awe of the heights that these camellia trees could grow to, I’m astounded by how small I am in the face of nature. Overwhelmed by feelings of deep reverence and admiration, I also notice that a handful of red camellias have already fallen onto the ground; with their pigment still intact, they seem to mirror the blooms poised on the branches above.

Red camellia at 2022 Taipei Camellias Show

Venturing further into the garden, I arrive at an exhibition space that displays camellias grown in pots by the Floriculture Experiment Centre, as well as camellia specialists throughout Taiwan. A particular type of camellia known as tian xiang (“heavenly scent”) seduced me with its aroma. While its look is not so different from the typical white camellias, the flower’s alluring scent immediately draw me in as soon as I move closer.

A short walk from the exhibition is the Camellia Greenhouse. Inside, camellias come in a wide range of colours, forms, fragrances and sizes. Amongst them is a variation of camellia japonica known as Wu Bao (“Five Treasures”). What’s so special about this particular species is that blossoms in a variety of colours can be found on one single tree, making it truly unique and rare.

Wu Bao (“Five Treasures”) at 2022 Taipei Camellias Show

According to The Compendium of Camellias or Cha Hua Pu (茶花譜) published in 1719, Wu Bao — as its name suggests — can grow flowers of five different colours, including pure white, light pink, hot pink, half pink and half white, and white with either red line or dots.

Until fairly recently, Camellia’s colour palette was restricted to white, pink, red and purple. Golden yellow camellia had always been highly sought-after, but extremely rare and difficult to spot.

Li Shizhen, the author of The Compendium of Materia Medica, had never seen a golden camellia himself, but cited an earlier text that points to “somewhere in the south”. Ever since, people have been looking for this fabled flower. Reportedly, Scottish botanist and plant hunter Robert Fortune was in search of golden camellia amongst other rare flower species during his trips to China in mid-19th centuries, but returned home empty handed.

Golden camellia at 2022 Taipei Camellias Show

In the decades that followed, countless plant collectors ventured deep into the mountains of southern China and Southeast Asia in search of golden camellia, but luck was not on their side. It was in 1960 in Guangxi province when two plant workers stumbled upon the golden camellia. The rediscovery of the long-lost flower created a sensation in the botanical world. The species was referred to as camellia chrysantha and, more recently, camellia petelotti.

Thanks to this groundbreaking discovery, the writer has the privilege to visit a section in the garden dedicated to several bushes of golden camellia in full bloom. Seeing the unique coloration of this golden flower, it is not difficult to imagine why this rare flora came to be crowned as the Queen of camellia flowers.

When it comes to flower appreciation, simply observing the flower’s colour, shape and form is what most people would do. Yet, in the writer’s humble opinion, the charm of camellias lies not only in its appearance, but also the history, legend and culture that the flower is tied to. Given that hundreds of described species of camellia are known to exist, each of them must have their story to tell.