The Art of Tempura: Beneath the Crunch
I thought I knew tempura. But it was only after savouring the tempura by Tetsuya Saotome — revered as the “God of Tempura” — that I came to the understand the essence of this Japanese dish.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
Tetsuya Saotome, over 70 years old and celebrated as the “God of Tempura”, prepares food for a gathering of diners.
TOKYO, Japan — For over a decade, two esteemed Japanese culinary icons have held a place on my bucket list: Jiro Ono, the God of Sushi, and Tetsuya Saotome, who is revered as the “God of Tempura”.
While Jiro Ono had retired, and I would never have the chance to savour the divine touch of the God of Sushi, I knew that I must seize the opportunity during my first visit to Tokyo to immerse myself in the culinary artistry of Tetsuya Saotome — and I was lucky to secure a seat during my stay.
For aficionados of Japanese cuisine, you would definitely be familiar with the term “tempura” (天ぷら). Tempura, in essence, is a traditional Japanese dish comprising seafood and vegetables, coated in a delicate batter and deep-fried.
The technique of fritter-cooking with a batter of flour and eggs is thought to have been introduced to Nagasaki by Portuguese missionaries toward the end of the 16th century. Interestingly, the term “tempura,” derived from the Latin “tempora” meaning “times,” was used by both Spanish and Portuguese missionaries to denote the quarterly Ember days when Catholics abstained from red meat, opting for fish or vegetables instead. The Portuguese dish known as “peixinhos da horta” (meaning “little fish from the garden”) that is still enjoyed today in Portugal, was introduced to Japan and served as inspiration for the tempura we know today.
Tempura has undergone evolution since its inception, with the predominant recipes in use today tracing their roots back to the Edo style. This innovative style emerged during the Edo period (1603-1868), at the food stalls along the riverside fish market. Its popularity surged due to the abundance of seafood, as well as the advancement of oil extraction techniques, leading to a more affordable cooking oil.
While tempura is often associated with soba (buckwheat noodles) and sushi nowadays, there are restaurants where tempura takes centre stage, served as a multi-course meal. One notable establishment fitting this description is Mikawa Zezankyo, an upscale tempura restaurant led by Tetsuya Saotome, the God of Tempura.
Mikawa Zezankyo is tucked away in a tranquil neighborhood, a short distance from the Sumida River in eastern Tokyo.
In a rush that day, I made my way to the eastern part of Tokyo with eager anticipation, knowing that I was finally going to dine at Mikawa Zezankyo, a restaurant long seated on my bucket list.
After a pleasant stroll from the nearest subway station, I reached the entrance of Mikawa Zezankyo. Nestled discreetly in a maze of residential streets near the Sumida River, Mikawa Zezankyo welcomed me in the midst of serene darkness. Without hesitation, I approached the restaurant’s doorstep, gently slid open its half-closed door.
Famed for its preparation of tempura using seasonal ingredients, Mikawa Zezankyo is in such high demand that securing a seat without a prior reservation is nearly impossible. Even for those wanting to make reservations, the limited availability fills up quickly. Dinner reservations are available in two time slots: 17:30 and 19:30. When I made my booking, I was left with the 17:30 slot.
Upon entering the restaurant, I — along with fellow guests — was welcomed to an intimate dining area on the ground floor. The focal point was a bar table encircling the kitchen, offering only nine seats. This setup provided an up-close view of the culinary expertise in action.
Even before the meal began, an air of anticipation permeated the room. The excitement heightened as Tetsuya Saotome, the legendary chef entered with his assistant. A hush fell over the room, but one could feel a collective reverence for the chef in the room, with every diner poised to witness the culinary magic about to unfold.
At Mikawa Zezankyo, each diner can prepare their own tentsuyu, the dipping sauce for tempura. Composed of dashi (Japanese soup stock), mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine), and soy sauce, this hands-on approach adds a delightful touch to the dining adventure.
The first course presented at Mikawa Zezankyo was ebi (shrimp) tempura.
Unlike the traditional ebi tempura that features only the shrimp body, at Mikawa Zezankyo, the shrimp head is also served, offering a delightfully crunchy texture that ensures no part goes to waste.
For its diners, Mikawa Zezankyo presents an omakase meal, a traditional Japanese dining style where patrons entrust the chef to select and serve seasonal specialties. First, we were presented with a petite pamphlet resembling a Japanese folding screen that contained the menu. The waiter meticulously went through each item, explaining that the ones crossed out in red indicated their unavailability on that particular day.
As we were told, time plays a crucial role when it comes to savouring tempura. Upon the arrival of each tempura, customers are encouraged to enjoy it promptly. “It would be most appreciated if you could eat TEMPURA immediately (without pause),” writes the old chef in the pamphlet.
The nine customers — including myself — seated at the bar received ultra-attentive service from two dedicated waiters throughout the meal. With each serving of tempura, the waiter guided us through the nuanced experience. We were instructed, one by one, on whether to enjoy the dish in its original flavour by delicately dipping it in salt or to dip it in tentsuyu, a sauce comprised of dashi (Japanese soup stock), mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine), and soy sauce.
Certain ingredients made a dual appearance – one for savouring the original flavour and a second for dipping into the tentsuyu sauce. While I typically enjoy tempura in its pristine state, I would occasionally dip it into the sauce, especially when knowing that the white radish helps to cool and balance the “fire” elements of the fritters I had consumed.
The culinary journey began with shrimp (ebi), the shrimp’s head, Japanese whiting (kisu), and squid. Following this assortment of seafood, a flavourful interlude unfolded with osumashi, the Japanese clear broth. Its presentation exuded effortless elegance, offering a delightful respite amid the fritters.
The Japanese whiting, known as “kisu” in Japanese, was served in the third course. We were guided to enjoy half of the fish as it was and the remaining portion by dipping it into the tentsuyu sauce.
The tenderness of the squid, with the crisp texture of the batter, creates a divine culinary pairing.
The Japanese clear soup, osumashi, offered a delightful respite amid the fritters.
Next on the culinary journey were ginkgo nuts, elegantly presented on a skewer, recalling “mitarashi dango”, traditional Japanese rice dumplings on a bamboo skewer coated in a sweet soy glaze.
Following that, a delicious mouthful of sea urchin roe (uni) awaited, sandwiched between shiso, or perilla, leaves. The combination of sweet, salty, and umami flavours from the sea urchin roe, complemented by the fragrant scent of the shiso leaves, was divine. Among the dishes presented thus far, this was my favourite.
The experience continued with shirako, or milt, the fish’s semen, fried into a ball, reminiscent of a chrysanthemum blooming between autumn and winter. Then, attention turned to the sea eel (anago). After taking out the freshly fried fish from the oil tank, Chef Tetsuya Saotome placed it on the serving plate in front of each diner. Instead of serving it whole — while still hot, he swiftly split the anago, nearly the length of my upper arm, into halves with his chopsticks. As usual, I was advised me to savour the sea eel in two ways.
The ginkgo nuts were presented on a skewer, recalling the traditional “mitarashi dango.”
The climax unfolds with the divine combination of a mouthful of sea urchin roe sandwiched between shiso leaves — a favourite moment of my culinary journey at Mikawa Zezankyo.
Milt (shirako) is expertly fried into a ball reminiscent of a chrysanthemum blooming between autumn and winter.
Up to this point, you might be wondering: so what sets the tempura prepared by the God of Tempura apart? After savouring the initial dishes, I realised that Chef Tetsuya Saotome’s tempura — unlike the many I’ve experienced in the past — preserves the original flavour of the ingredients. Considering the unique texture and thickness of each ingredient, they’re coated in various batters, and the frying time is adjusted accordingly to ensure optimal taste. The thin batter coating, too, allows the distinct taste and flavour of each ingredient to shine, in contrast to the usual emphasis, or lack thereof, on the batter’s thickness in regular tempura.
The art of frying tempura is no easy feat. Midway through the meal, I noticed signs of fatigue in the old chef’s hand that’s been tirelessly repeating the frying action for over an hour. His unwavering diligence is truly admirable, earning him my utmost respect.
The waiter then presented a list of wild vegetables, from which we could select two. I opted for shiitake mushrooms and green peppers (though I was tempted by eggplants too).
Following this, clam miso soup and a cluster of small scallops (hashira kakiage) atop a bowl of white rice were served. A choice was offered: either dry scallops tempura placed atop steamed white rice, like a donburi, or simmered in soup. I opted for the dry one, and it proved to be a delicious choice. The journey concluded with an in-house dessert featuring azuki beans in a transparent jelly soup with brown sugar.
While dining, it’s remarkable to consider how tempura has evolved into the culinary delight we know today. In the Edo period, deep-fried foods like tempura were banned indoors due to the fire hazard posed by the oil, given the prevalent use of paper and wood in Japanese buildings. Consequently, tempura gained popularity as a fast-food option at outdoor stalls. People back then wouldn’t have imagined that this Edo delicacy has now transformed into a high-end culinary experience at Mikawa Zezankyo restaurant.
Honestly, before the meal, I was concerned about a full-course meal comprised solely of fritters being too greasy for someone like me, who usually lean towards a lighter diet and seldom indulges in fried foods. However, with the well-timed pauses between courses, it turned out to be more manageable than I had anticipated.
Before our departure, the chef took the petite pamphlet that accompanied us and, on the back page, signed it with his signature and a drawing of crest symbol, authenticated by a red stamp bearing the restaurant’s name, “Mikawa Zezankyo,” written in kanji characters.
On the reverse side of this folded menu, the venerable chef’s philosophy on tempura is elucidated in a passage, stating tempura as the expression of his aesthetic pursuits. Despite tempura’s seemingly mundane role for many (it’s often served as a side in bento boxes or atop a bowl of udon), Chef Tetsuya Saotome emphasises the importance of their existence.
His tempura achieves more than satisfying my palate; it reshapes my understanding of what constitutes first-grade tempura. The flavours of the ingredients, locked inside the thin coat of batter he employs, unfold with each bite. And if you just pay a little bit more attention, you’ll notice that the tempura’s taste evolves with every breath and passing moment, hence the importance of savouring them immediately.
Leaving the restaurant with immense satisfaction, I realised that while it marked the end of my day, Chef Tetsuya Saotome was gearing up for the next round of patrons. I could already envision those diners departing with a transformed perspective, all thanks to his extraordinary tempura.
Despite the thin batter coating, the shiitake mushroom retains its moisture exceptionally well.
A cluster of small scallop tempura is placed on a bed of steamed rice.
Tips for wanderers — booking your seat at Mikawa Zezankyo before it runs out!
Secure your seat at the restaurant by registering at least 3 weeks in advance. Book your reservation through the website here. Please be aware that whether it’s for lunch or dinner, an Omakase Course costs ¥22,500 per person, with a ¥5,000 deposit required at the time of booking. Keep in mind that if you cancel your reservation for any reason, you’ll lose your deposit.