Wander in Egypt: Temple of Hatshepsut

A short ride from the famed Valley of the Kings lies a remarkable temple dedicated to the female pharaoh, Hatshepsut, whose enduring legacy resonates throughout the surrounding desert cliffs.

Sense of Wander: ★★★★★

An aerial view of he Temple of Hatshepsut in Luxor, Egypt, show the temple being surrounded by the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari. Image courtesy of Diego Delso.

LUXOR, Egypt — Egypt, the land of ancient wonders, holds countless treasures from its glorious past. Among these extraordinary sites, Luxor stands proudly as the modern-day embodiment of Thebes, the grand capital that witnessed the pinnacle of ancient Egyptian civilisation.

Most people visit Luxor would not miss the Valley of the Kings, an underground engineering feat that preserves an artistic style that has, since then, become synonymous with ancient Egypt. But a short ride away from this subterranean labyrinth lies another remarkable sight: the Temple of Hatshepsut.

Built during the 15th century BC, the Temple of Hatshepsut was erected to honour the reign of Pharaoh Hatshepsut (literally ‘Foremost of Noble Ladies'). She was one of the few women to ascend to the esteemed position of pharaoh throughout the extensive 3,000-year history of ancient Egypt. While she was the third woman to claim this prestigious title, Hatshepsut stands as the first to attain full authority. It would be about 14 centuries later when Cleopatra would rise to prominence, following in Hatshepsut’s footsteps to exercise a similar level of power and influence.

In a line of Egyptian pharaohs who were mostly men, Queen Hatshepsut asserted her power by assuming the identity of a king during her reign between 1478 to 1458 BC. She donned male regalia, attire, and even the symbolic king’s beard, presenting herself as a formidable ruler.

Notably, Hatshepsut insisted on being referred to as “he” rather than “she”. This remarkable display of gender defiance is captured in a sculpture on display at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Observing this very sculpture, visitors might easily mistake the female pharaoh for a male, were it not for the accompanying museum label that unveils its true identity.

Uncovered from the temple at Deir el-Bahari, this limestone head of Pharaoh Hatshepsut is depicted with a beard, which symbolises her connection to god.

Hatshepsut’s reign marked a period of prosperity and cultural development. Her efforts to revitalise trade with neighboring regions led to an economic prosperity that became influential factors in shaping the artistic landscape of the time.

Her temple, which is nestled amidst the desert cliffs of Deir el-Bahari, reflects the architectural splendour of the New Kingdom era (c. 1550–1070 BC).

“As I wander in the Temple of Hatshepsut, I make a stop every few steps to capture the sheer beauty of this architectural masterpiece with my eyes.”

As I set foot into the compound of this ancient monument, I couldn’t help but be transported back in time to an era of powerful pharaohs and divine deities. When looking from afar, it’s clear that the temple is a stunning example of ancient architecture — one that differs in plan and style from the rest of temples in Egypt.

The temple's three-tiered structure creates a harmonious blend of man-made marvels and the rugged beauty of its surrounding landscape. Somehow, it looks less oppressive than the monumental buildings of the previous periods, and appears pleasing to the eyes — its horizontal plane, which differs from the triangular composition of the pyramids, recall that of classical architecture.

The facade of the temple's second level features a row of columns with intricately carved depictions of Pharaoh Hatshepsut.

Upon passing through the ticket office and security check, I hop onto a cart that takes me directly to the foot of the temple. Under the blazing sun, I ascend a series of flights of stairs until I finally reach its facade, punctuated with imposing colonnades and intricately carved reliefs. The figures depicted on these colonnades have been unmistakably identified as none other than Hatshepsut herself. The repetition of these representations echoes the resounding legacy of the pharaoh that reverberates throughout the surrounding desert cliffs.

As I venture into the temple complex, I come across its magnificent hypostyle hall. Though much of it is in ruins, it’s not hard to imagine that this spacious hall was once adorned with towering pillars, each decorated with exquisite hieroglyphic carvings depicting scenes from mythology and the pharaoh’s divine lineage.

Passing through the hypostyle hall, one arrives at the heart of the temple where the sanctuary of Amun — the patron god of Thebes since the 20th century BC — lies. The space served as a place of religious rituals and offerings, evoking within most visitors a deep connection to the spiritual beliefs of the past.

Along the lower register of the wall, intricate carvings of flora and fauna in low-relief offer a glimpse into the rich tapestry of details that once adorned this sanctuary, had it not succumbed to the ravages of time.

As I wander in the Temple of Hatshepsut, I make a stop every few steps to capture the sheer beauty of this architectural masterpiece with my eyes. The combination of its stunning architecture, elaborate carvings, and awe-inspiring surroundings creates a mesmerising atmosphere that captures the imagination.

Inside the Temple of Hatshepsut, a wall painting depicts Amun, patron deity of Thebes, sitting before a table of offerings.

Detailed low-relief carving of fish, ducks and aquatic plants adorned the lower register of the wall inside the Sanctuary of Amun, located at the heart of the Temple of Hatshepsut. what

Standing amidst the remnants of Hatshepsut’s temple, I couldn’t help but contemplate on the various obstacles that Hatshepsut would have faced as a woman in the royal court, and how hard she must have tried to work her way from being a queen to a king, and to maintain her influence throughout her reign.

Despite the efforts of her successor, Thutmose III (reigned c. 1479–1425 BC), to erase the evidence of Hatshepsut's rule by removing depictions of Hatshepsut from the temples and monuments she had built, her indelible legacy as a formidable female ruler remains intact. Undoubtedly, Hatshepsut’s accomplishments and impact can’t be easily erased from history.

Before my trip to Egypt, the image of Hatshepsut’s temple, alongside the iconic pyramids, would cross my mind everytime I pondered the wonders of ancient Egypt. When standing before this monument that had lingered vividly in my imagination for so long, words failed to capture the experience that envelope me.

While the ancient civilisation that once thrived had long faded into the past and the reign of Hatshepsut came to an end, the Temple of Hatshepsut remains steadfast on the soil of Egypt, etching its memory into the collective consciousness of those who dwell on this sacred land, as well as those afar.

Remnants of the hypostyle hall on the second level of the Temple of Hatshpsut in Luxor, Egypt.

This article is part of the series “Wander in Egypt”.

Reference:
Atiya, F. (2006). Ancient Egypt. Cairo, Egypt: Dar al-Mushaf
Roehrig, Catharine H., et al., editors (2005). Hatshepsut, from Queen to Pharaoh. The Metropolitan Museum of Art ; Yale University Press
Vercoutter, J. (1992). The Search For Ancient Egypt. London, England: Thames & Hudson