Wander in Egypt: Venture into the Enigmatic Desert
In this desolate land, where the ever-changing landscape is sculpted and shaped by the elements, dwell people who proudly refer to this place as their home.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
This writer wandering in the desert in Hurghada, Egypt.
In the desert, life appears to have stopped and, amidst this profound stillness, the urge to question the purpose of our existence also seems to fade.
HURGHADA, Egypt — Lying to the east coast of Egypt lining the Red Sea, Hurghada (الغردقة) boasts many attractions: its clear and tranquil waters ideal for water sports; a year-round hot and dry climate, and an abundance of luxurious resorts that dot its expansive beaches.
My two-night stay at the Kempinski Hotel Soma Bay was nothing short of magical. From the warm, vanilla-scented breeze to the glowing red sun setting on the Red Sea's horizon, every moment felt like pure bliss. It was as if I could leave all cares behind and simply live in the present. Nothing else seemed to matter.
After a satisfying breakfast, I hopped onto the jeep and set off into the desert. I took the front seat, where I met our driver, Abdu. In just a 20-minute ride, we found ourselves in the desert, its vastness creating the illusion of an endless expedition.
Strangely, despite my lack of knowledge about our destination, I felt no worry. Venturing into uncharted territory heightened my adrenaline, yet I remained surprisingly serene. Abdu's playlist, brimming with familiar pop tunes, amplified the sense of adventure.
In the heart of the desert, paraphrasing Albert Camus, "the silence was as vast as space". Only the whispers of the wind dared to disrupt its stillness. The sky stretched in a pristine hue, its horizon remaining distant no matter our efforts to reach it. The elements have meticulously sculpted the topography of this desolate expanse, their touch so gentle that the shifts and changes often escape notice.
Here in the desert, life seemed to have paused, and within this profound stillness, the urge to question the purpose of our existence seem to have faded away.
After another 20-minute journey through a landscape dominated by nothing but sand and stone, we arrived at a Bedouin settlement, often considered the heartbeat of the desert.. This group of desert dwellers is said to trace its origins back to Libya and Saudi Arabia, a migration that occurred around 300 years ago.
"What makes the desert beautiful,” said the Little Prince, “is that somewhere it hides a well…". Our first stop in the desert was precisely the well — one that’s so deep that when a stone was thrown into it, it took a while for the sound of the stone hitting the ground to reach our ears.
The Bedouins rely on subterranean water sources for their livelihoods. But how did they manage to discover these water sources amidst vast expanses of desert? Legend has it that if a camel remains stationary in one spot for an extended period, it means that there’s water source underneath.
Desert dwellers depend their livelihood on this well as its main water source.
This white-bricked masjid, notable for its minaret topped with a crescent moon, marks the centre of faith for the Bedouin settlement.
These brick buildings — toilets — are located within walking distance of the settlement.
Amidst this desolate expanse, a small masjid stands as a testament to the daily devotion of the faithful desert dwellers. Fashioned from rugged stones, this modest structure is adorned with a coat of white paint. Its low roof accommodates a minaret, meticulously crowned by a brick-red crescent.
Camels hold paramount significance for these desert dwellers. Not only do they serve as a means of transportation, but their hair can also be transformed into threads for weaving. In close proximity, a camel stands outside one of the tents, within which a traditional loom finds its place. It is here that the Bedouin women weave intricate patterns using camel's hair, which has been dyed in a rich array of colours, yielding prayer rugs, bags, and other traditional crafts. Additionally, camel dung serves as a crucial fuel source, contributing to the preparation of delectable cuisine.
While wandering in the area, I stumbled upon another tent where a woman sat on the ground, occupied with kneading and baking dough. Dried camel dung was employed to maintain the pan's heat over the fire. I had the privilege of savouring a bite of "farasheeh" (فراشيح) — a thin bread traditionally prepared by the Bedouins — immediately as it was removed from the heat. To my surprise, the bread had a delightful sweetness, despite its simple ingredients: wheat flour, salt, and water.
Camel hair can be processed and turned into material for weaving, producing the likes of rugs, bags, and woven products.
A Bedouin woman preparing the “farasheeh”, a traditional thin bread made from wheat flour, salt, and water.
Life in the desert is characterised by simplicity. Its inhabitants have embraced this minimal way of life, a lifestyle that resonates with extreme minimalists worldwide. But due to limited resources, the Bedouins in Hurghada's desert find themselves under the protection of the local army.
Despite the rugged and uneven terrain throughout the desert, an enduring sense of serenity enveloped me throughout the journey. On our way back to the hotel, I seized my last opportunity to converse in Arabic with our driver, Abdu. We exchanged laughter, and at the end of our trip, he gifted me a glowing bracelet as a token of friendship.
In this monochromatic expanse, where a select few proudly call this land as their home, my spirit was graced with a newfound sense of freedom. Given the chance, I would relish the opportunity to spend a night in the desert, to see whether the glow of the bracelet I received could compete with the sparkles of the starry sky above.
This writer riding a camel in the desert, led by a Bedouin woman dressed in black.
Settlement sitting with their camels under the blazing sun.
After our adventure in the desert, we leave with our jeep.
Tips for wanderer — what to do in the desert of Hurghada:
Have tea with the Bedouins inside a tent
Ride a camel
Savoru the freshly baked "farasheeh"
Pray in their masjid (if you’re a Muslim!)
This article is part of the “Wander in Egypt” series.