Wander in Sicily: In the Footsteps of the Arabs
Arab rule in Sicily ended over a millennium ago, yet its influence remains deeply engrained in the island’s culture, shaping its language, cuisine, cityscape, and art.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
Map of Sicily by cartographer Muhammad al-Idrisi, featured in the renowned medieval world map Charta Rogeriana, commissioned by King Roger II of Sicily.
PALERMO, Italy — Visitors to Sicily are welcomed with everything the Mediterranean has to offer: long hours of sunshine, breathtaking landscapes, idyllic beaches, and its culinary tradition known for its rich flavours and wholesome ingredients.
Yet, apart from its scenic beauty, Sicily holds a history as rich as its flavours. Nestled off the southern tip of the Italian peninsula, the island was once a crossroads of civilisations. The Sicily we know today is shaped by a mosaic of influences, from the Greeks and Romans to the Arabs, Normans, and beyond — all of whom left a lasting mark on its culture and way of life.
As an enthusiast of Islamic art and culture, I set out to explore what was once known as Siqilliya — the Arabic name for Sicily during its period of Arab rule, which lasted from 831 to 1091. The Arab influence on the island was — and continues to be — profound, transforming its agriculture, architecture, language, and the arts.
Though Arab rule officially began in 831, the real turning point came earlier, in June 827, when Arab forces from Tunisia landed on Sicily’s southwestern coast, in the town of Mazara. This marked the beginning of a transformative era that would reshape the island.
If we visit Mazara del Vallo today, we can still see remnants of this past. The town’s Casbah, a historic Arab district established in the 9th century, retains its labyrinthine alleys and tightly clustered buildings. Today, Mazara del Vallo is also home to Italy’s largest Tunisian community, which makes up around 8% of the local population.
The Arab conquest of Sicily was neither swift nor easy — it took nearly 75 years to tame the island. Once established, the Emirate of Sicily ushered in over two centuries of prosperity, governed first by the Aghlabids, then by the Kalbids, and later the Zirids. Even after the Normans took control in 1091, Arab influences continued to shape Sicilian culture well into the early 13th century.
The tranquil port of Mazara del Vallo is a living witness to the dawn of Arab Sicily.
The Casbah, an ancient Arab quarter in Mazara del Vallo, is a living witness to the Arab conquest of Sicily.
The Arab rule played a pivotal role in shaping Sicily’s rich heritage, transformation the island into a melting pot of ideas, cultures, and traditions. They introduced new crops, advanced irrigation techniques, and distinctive architectural styles, many have become iconic landmarks of the island today.
At its peak, Palermo had a population of 250,000. For those interested in exploring further, an exhibition in the basement of the Royal Palace of Palermo (Palazzo dei Normanni) showcases a copy of Palermo’s city map in Arab Sicily.
Earliest recorded map of Sicily from a 13th-century copy of the cosmography, The Book of Curiosities, now in the Bodleian Library at Oxford University.
One humble reminder of this period can be found at the Cathedral of Palermo (Cattedrale di Palermo), where a marble column inscribed with Quranic verses in Arabic, from Surah al-Araf, silently witnesses the once-standing Great Mosque of Bal’harm (the Arab name for Palermo) that once stood on the site. The inscription reads:
“Indeed your Lord is Allah Who created the heavens and the earth in six Days, then established Himself on the Throne. He makes the day and night overlap in rapid succession. He created the sun, the moon, and the stars — all subjected by His command. The creation and the command belong to Him [alone]. Blessed is Allah — Lord of all worlds!”
(English translation from https://quran.com)
A marble column at the Cathedral of Palermo bears a Quranic inscription in Arabic.
This epigraph features a calligraphic inscription in the “floriated kufic” style, which would have been visible throughout the era of Arab Sicily.
Arabic was the dominant language — it left a lasting mark on the Sicilian tongue, with Arabic words woven into everyday expressions and place names.
Islam, on the other hand, shaped everything from the island’s architecture — mosques and palaces — to daily life. Islamic traditions merged with local customs, giving birth to a unique Siqilliya culture.
The bustling souq of cities like Palermo was a sensory delight, boasting everything from spices and textiles to citrus fruits and ceramics. La Vucciria, Palermo’s oldest market, is believed to date back to the Arab era.
Meanwhile, the Kalsa, established in the 9th century, was once the heart of Arab Palermo. Known as “Qasr al-Asir” or the “Palace District,” it was the city’s elite quarter. Today, though, a stroll through the neighborhood reveals that much of its Islamic heritage has been swept away by the tide of time.
On the eastern coast of Sicily, in Syracuse, remnants of the Arab Quarter can still be found in the Graziella and Spirduta neighborhoods on Ortygia Island. The Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi, Syracuse’s archaeology museum, also offers a glimpse into this era with its collection of coins from that time.
For those, like me, fascinated by Arabic calligraphy, a visit to the Regional Gallery of Sicily (Galleria Regionale della Sicilia) at Palazzo Abatellis in Palermo is a must. Here, you can discover a remarkable collection of epigraphs inscribed in Arabic, quietly waiting to be discovered in the museum’s less-visited galleries.
In 1923, a remarkable hoard of gold coins dated to the reign of Fatimid Caliph al-Mustansir (1063–1094) was discovered in Mussomeli, shedding light on Sicily’s Islamic past. Today, these coins are on display at the Archaeological Museum of Syracuse (Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi) in Sicily.
The end of Arab rule in Sicily in 1091 didn’t erase the island’s Arab influences, which remained deeply engrained in its cultural fabric, even under Norman control.
Roger II (reigned 1130–1139), the Norman king of Sicily, was raised in the multicultural city of Palermo. He was fluent in Arabic and educated by Muslim scholars. Arabic was the official language of the island, and court documents were written in it. Even as the Normans took control, they embraced and preserved many aspects of Arab culture, blending them with their own.
This period also saw a flourishing of science, philosophy, and poetry. One notable achievement came from Muhammad al-Idrisi who, in 1154, created the renowned world map commissioned by King Roger for the Kitab al-Rajar (Roger’s Book). In this map, the Muslim cartographer placed Mecca at the centre of the world, symbolising the influence of Islam on the intellectual landscape of Norman Sicily.
In Palermo’s Church of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio, a mosaic depicts Roger II being crowned by Jesus Christ.
Painted by Egyptian artists, the intricate muqarnas ceilings of the Palatine Chapel in Palermo form a stunning contrast with shimmering Byzantine mosaics.
The Church of San Cataldo, a UNESCO World Heritage List, is a fine example of Arab-Norman architecture in Palermo.
While Roger II laid the groundwork for a prosperous and multicultural kingdom, it was under his grandson, Frederick II (reigned 1198–1250), that Norman Sicily’s arts and culture reached their zenith.
A passionate patron of the arts and sciences, Frederick II attracted scholars, poets, and artists to his court. He also encouraged the translation of works from Arabic, Greek, and Latin — a move that would help ignite the intellectual movement that ultimately paved the way for the Renaissance in Western Europe.
The tombstone for Anna, on display at the Zisa Palace (Castello de la Zisa) in Palermo, stands as a testament to Sicily’s multicultural past.
In the historic centre of Palermo, some street signs — in Italian, Hebrew, and Arabic — reflect the tricultural heritage of Sicily under Norman rule.
Architecturally, the fusion of Arab and Norman styles gave birth to the distinctive Arab-Norman architecture, visible in iconic landmarks such as the Palatine Chapel (Cappella Palatina) and the Cathedral of Monreale (Cattedrale di Monreale). In fact, a series of nine sites are inscribed in UNESCO’s “Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale” listing, an itinerary that many visitors and cultural enthusiasts in Sicily follow.
Most of these landmarks are well worth a visit. Mesmerising geometric patterns, intricately carved muqarnas, and colourful mosaic tiles — all inspired by Arab craftsmanship — define many of these landmarks.
In the heart of Palermo, the Royal Palace of Palermo — originally built by the Arabs in the 9th century — was later expanded by the Normans. Inside, the Palatine Chapel dazzles with mosaics blending Arab, Norman, and Byzantine styles.
Just a short walk from the palace, the Cathedral of Palermo and the Church of Saint John of the Hermits (Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti) offer further examples of Arab-Norman fusion. For those seeking adventure, the Zisa Palace (Castello della Zisa), just outside the city, houses the Museum of Islamic Art.
A quick train ride takes you to the Cathedral of Monreale, its stunning mosaics make it an unmissable complement to the Palatine Chapel. Equally remarkable, the Cathedral of Cefalù (Cattedrale di Cefalù), built by King Roger II, is rich in history.
The Cathedral of Monreale is a masterpiece of mosaic art, covering nearly every inch of its interior — from the intricate geometric patterns on the floor to the Byzantine mosaics on its walls and arches that bring biblical stories to life.
Inside the cloister of the Cathedral of Monreale, all 228 columns are different, some with intricate mosaics, others with meticulously-sculpted subjects — transforming a simple walk into a journey of discovery.
The 12th-century Arab-Norman "Scrigno Tower," perched above the city’s defensive walls and serving as an entry point through the Busuemi Gate, is still standing within Palazzo Conte Federico in Palermo.
The arrival of the Arabs laid the groundwork for Sicily’s unique culinary traditions, whose legacy continues to thrive today.
Thanks to their introduction of advanced irrigation systems, crop diversification, and the cultivation of new crops, Sicily blossomed into an agricultural hub. The island’s citrus orchards — home to oranges, lemons, and limes — are a direct result of the Arab influence on Sicilian agriculture. Almond trees, brought by the Arabs, are now essential to many beloved Sicilian sweets, including frutta martorana and cassatine.
The Arabs also brought exotic spices like saffron, cinnamon, and cloves, which became essential to the island’s culinary identity. Many traditional Sicilian delights, such as couscous, cannoli, and arancini, still bear the signature of Arab flavours and techniques.
The Arabs also introduced pistachios, especially in areas like Bronte, where a unique variety still thrives. In Sicily, you’ll find pistachios sprinkled on everything from pasta to pizza, as well as in Sicilian desserts.
And don’t be surprised to stumble upon pistachio-flavoured coffee in local supermarkets — it’s undeniable an Arab Sicilian treat!
Sicilian cassata is a decadent dessert made with pistachio and almond marzipan — ingredients that are a delicious reminder of the island’s Arab heritage.
Tips for wanderer — To find out more about the sites featured in UNESCO’s “Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalú and Monreale” listing, check out their website via this link.
Reference:
Fein, A. (2024). “Kufic Epigraphy between Norman Sicily and Ifriqiya.” Muqarnas: an Annual on the Visual Cultures of the Islamic World, 40(1), 43–67. https://doi.org/10.1163/22118993_0040_004
Gabrieli, F., & Scerrato, U. (1979). Gli Arabi in Italia: Cultura, contatti e tradizioni. Credito Italiano.
Ibn Jubayr. (2022). Viaggio in Sicilia. Adelphi.
Spadaro, M. A., & Troisi, S. (2018). Itinerario arabo-normanno: Il patrimonio dell'UNESCO a Palermo, Monreale e Cefalù—The Arab-Norman itinerary: The UNESCO heritage in Palermo, Monreale, and Cefalù. Edizioni d'Arte Kalós.
Vanoli, A. (2012). La Sicilia musulmana. Il Mulino.