Gion Odori: Allure of Geisha Amid Seasonal Beauty

Kyoto’s Gion Odori runs every autumn from November 1 to 10. Image courtesy of Gion Higashi Kabukai

Sense of Wander: ★★★★★

KYOTO, Japan — A visit to Kyoto is incomplete without exploring Gion, the city's most renowned geisha district. Kyoto is home to five such districts known as kagai, or “flower towns”, where geiko (also known as geisha in other regions) and maiko, the apprentice geiko, weave their magic through captivating performances.

Come autumn, the skilled entertainers of the Gion Higashi district add to the city’s cultural tapestry with their annual event, "Gion Odori" (祇園をどり). As the maple leaves change their hues, this spectacle adds a unique layer to Kyoto’s cultural panorama, creating an enchanting ambiance that unmistakably defines Kyoto.

Gion Odori: Kyoto's Autumn Extravaganza

Transforming Gion into a realm of wonder from November 1 to 10, Kyoto’s Gion Odori is an annual spectacle. This large-scale dance performance, staged by the geiko and maiko of the Gion Higashi distric, captivates audiences from around the world.

Since its debut in 1894, Gion Odori has stood the test of time, becoming Kyoto’s seasonal staple — the only public performance of its kind in autumn.

Celebrating its 64th edition this year, Gion Odori acts as a gateway into the captivating mystique of geiko. As custodians of tradition, these "women of the arts" offer both local and global spectators an intimate encounter with Kyoto's cultural heartbeat. Gion Odori isn't just a performance — it's an invitation to witness tradition come alive in the ancient capital.

Stage setup for the prologue of the 64th edition of Gion Odori at Kaikan Theatre in Kyoto.

Prelude to Gion Odori

Anticipation hung in the air as I prepared myself for the spectacle. Standing in line among fellow attendees, each holding ticket that granted access to the tea ceremony (included for an extra 1,000 yen), I joined the line inside the Kaikan Theatre. Despite my prompt arrival at the opening doors, a queue had already formed. After about 15 to 20 minutes, it was finally my turn to step into the tea room.

Inside, a bustling energy filled the air, but amid the activity, a surprising sense of order prevailed amidst the excitement. I quickly looked for an empty seat to settle in. Within minutes, a steaming cup of matcha tea was placed before me, accompanied by a delightful surprise — a tiny bun filled with red bean paste, artfully presented on a light pink plate.

For those fortunate enough to secure first-row seats, the possibility of being served by a geiko, adorned in their beautiful kimono and makeup, added an extra layer of enchantment to the experience. As I savoured my tea and treats, my mind wandered to the allure of a less crowded room, where one awaits the gracious service of a geiko.

After indulging in the refreshments, I followed the lead of my fellow guests, carefully wrapping the plate with a piece of ivory white paper handed to me. Returning it to one of the serving ladies, I was surprised when she insisted that I keep it as a souvenir. It was then that I discovered the bottom of the plate bore the elegant inscription “祇園をど” (“Gion Odori”), a cherished memento of the moments I had just experienced and those awaiting me.

The first scene of the 64th Gion Odori is the “Seven Spring Herbs”. Image courtesy of Veltra.

In the second scene, “Peach Festival”, a pair of peach blossom fairies emerge on stage. Image courtesy of Veltra.

Gion Odori 2023: A Celebration of Seasonal Beauty

Each year, Gion Odori presents a new theme for its mesmerising dance performance. In the spotlight for 2023 is the celebration of gosekku, also known as the five annual ceremonies steeped in tradition at the Japanese imperial court.

The show kicks off with a prologue, introducing each of the five festivals: January 7th for the Seven Spring Herbs, March 3rd for the Girls’ Festival, May 5th for Carp Streamers, July 7th for the Star Festival, and September 9th for the Festival of Chrysanthemum.

The first scene illuminates Japan's cultural richness, immersing us in the tradition of savouring freshly harvested vegetables and herbs at the dawn of the new year. The theme revolves around the “seven spring herbs” used to prepare rice porridge, or kayu, on January 7th throughout Japan. While the specific selection of these seven vegetables and herbs varies across regions, today it commonly includes water dropwort (seri), shepherd's purse (nazuna), cottonweed (gogyo), chickweed (hakobera), henbit (hotokenoza), turnip (suzuna), and radish (suzushiro). This timeless custom, dating back over a millennium, traces its origins in The Pillow Book (Makura no Soshi), a chronicle penned by a lady-in-waiting of the Empress.

Accompanying the performance is a song that echoes through the centuries, detailing the art of picking and preparing the herbs and the alchemy of cooking the porridge. As with other scenes, the enchanting voices of the vocalists on the side of the stage artfully recreate the ambiance of the festival, seamlessly weaving it into the narrative on stage.

Scene two unveils the Peach Festival and Girls' Festival, gracing the third day of the third month. Two enchanting peach blossom fairies emerge, sipping sake amid the floral décor of the reception room.

The third scene centres on the Iris Festival, also known as Boys' Day, that falls on May 5th. On this day, the garden comes alive with the vibrant display of carp streamers (koinobori), a tradition with roots in the Edo period (1603-1867) and inspired by the Chinese myth of carp ascending the dragon’s gate.

In this captivating setting, two geiko take centre stage, with one representing a black carp and the other a crimson one. Their journey unfolds as they triumphantly navigate the challenges of climbing over the Dragon Gate waterfall, undergoing a magical transformation into dragons — the rulers of the seven seas. As they ascend to the heavens, their presence brings forth blessed rain, concluding the enchanting spectacle on the stage.

An elegant geiko is seen impatiently waiting for her lover on the Star Festival. Image courtesy of Veltra.

July 7th marks the arrival of Tanabata Festival, widely known as the Star Festival. This special day pays homage to the celestial union of the Weaver and Cowherd constellations. Onstage, a geiko, graced by a bamboo branch adorned with wish-laden strips of fancy paper, tenderly awaits her lover.

Next in line is the Chrysanthemum Festival on September 9th. Geiko and maiko take the stage, showcasing a stunning array of chrysanthemum blooms. The accompanying song serenades the audience, painting a lyrical picture of the myriad white and yellow chrysanthemums that grace the autumn season in Kyoto.

In the grand finale, Gion Higashi Kouta — a lyrical ballad celebrating the Gion Higashi area — takes centre stage. This theme song masterfully captures the seasonal beauty and iconic landscapes of Kyoto, from the cherry blossoms adorning the stone pavements of Maruyama to the graceful willows lining the nearby Kamogawa River. The ceremonial bonfires in August, the melodic chorus of insects in autumn, the snow-covered Yasaka Shrine, and the ringing bells heralding the new year all find their place in this mesmerising ode. Amidst these seasonal transitions, the lamps illuminate Gion Higashi, casting a radiant glow against the ever-changing backdrop of the town.

Geiko and maiko showcase the beauty of chrysanthemum blooms during the 64th Gion Odori. Image courtesy of Veltra.

Tips for wanderer — Don't let the language barrier discourage you from experiencing the wonder of Gion Odori. While both the vocal performances and occasional lines spoken by the geiko and maiko are in Japanese, the sheer visual spectacle is nothing short of breathtaking. It provides a captivating glimpse into the glamour and artistry upheld by these guardians of time-honoured traditions.

For those eager to delve deeper into the performance's narrative and lyrics, which are occasionally spoken or sung, investing in the printed program (available for 1,000 yen) is a wise choice; it offers a comprehensive translation for each section, allowing you to unravel the rich stories woven into the dance.

If you happen to be in Kyoto in the early days of November, don't miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in the world of Gion Odori. This annual dance performance offers a cultural experience like no other. Ticket, currently priced at 7,000 yen (tea ceremony included), can be secured through the Gion Odori website. Please note that seat selection is not available.

Have you ever attended a Gion Odori performance? Share your thoughts and experiences by leaving a comment below!

Reference:
Program notes for “64th Gion Odori”. November 1-10, 2023, Gion Kaikan, Kyoto.

The 64th Gion Odori was staged at Gion Kaikan in Kyoto from November 1st to 10th, 2023, with two performances being held daily.