Shosoin: A Millennial Treasure Trove for Culture Aficionados
NARA, Japan — This autumn, I find myself in Japan, a season that nourishes arts and culture enthusiasts with numerous blockbuster exhibitions throughout the country. Certainly, the annual Shosoin treasures exhibition in Nara is an experience I couldn't miss. Join me as the nation marks the 75th edition of this noteworthy exhibition, exploring the significance of these precious objects, as well as the must-see highlights of the year.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★☆
A closer look at the rear side of the biwa lute on display reveals intricate depictions of flora and fauna, achieved through mother-of-pearl inlays. The precision in portraying these subjects exemplifies the pinnacle of this technique. Towards the upper section, an inscription reads “Todai-ji”. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
Todai-ji: More Than Just a Buddhist Temple
For first-time visitors to Nara, Todai-ji is an unmistakable destination. Founded in 738, this Buddhist temple complex remains a magnet for pilgrims across the world. Yet, beyond serving as a sacred space for Buddhism, Todai-ji stands as a timeless treasure trove, safeguarding a myriad of precious objects for over a millennium.
Shosoin: Guardian of Ancient Riches
Entrusted with the safekeeping of over 9,000 items, Shosoin served as one of the repositories or storage houses for Todai-ji. The term “shoso” denotes a structure for holding property or taxes (such as rice, cloth, and local specialty products) belonging to a temple or government, with its suffix “in” indicating an area enclosed by a fence or wall. While numerous shoso repositories existed at the time, the sole surviving example is the one at Todai-ji, now commonly referred to as “Shosoin”.
The Shosoin collection spans a diverse array of items, ranging from works of arts and crafts to important documents, manuscripts, sutras, musical instruments, costumes, and furnishings. Among the treasures are items linked to the consecration of the Great Buddha in 752, personal belongings of Emperor Shomu (reigned 724-749), and medicines donated to Todai-ji by Empress Komyo (701–760).
It is only natural that the items housed at Todai-ji’s Shosoin have associations with the temple. However, the scope of Shosoin treasures goes far beyond. They encompass works from both local and foreign origins, providing insights into the rich culture of Japan's Nara period (710-749).
Today, these items are acknowledged as treasures not due to their composition of gold and jewels, but because the majority of them were crafted 1,300 years ago — a rare instance of artefacts preserved above ground in a building specially constructed for their protection and care. The fact that they endure to this day is a miracle.
Built in the 8th century, the Shosoin Repository is located within the grounds of the temple Todaiji in Nara, Japan. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
A Glimpse into the Glamour of Aristocratic Life
Each year, aprroximately 60 objects are selected for display at the Shosoin Treasures exhibition. These exhibits not only shed light on the breadth of the collection but also offer a glimpse into aristocratic life, primarily associated with Emperor Shomu and Empess Komyo, during the Nara period.
Interestingly, historical records from the 8th to 9th centuries reveal that some of these items donated to Todai-ji were occasionally lent out or used. Similar to the fate of precious treasures worldwide, items stored in the Shosoin were only accessible to the privileged few until 1946 when the first public exhibition took place.
As an art history graduate and an avid enthusiast of aesthetic wonders, my first visit to the exhibition was back in 2018 during its 70th Annual Exhibition. At the time, I was compelled not only by Shosoin’s extensive collection, but by the remarkably good condition of these objects, lasting over 1,300 years. This visit, too, reignited my interest in ancient artefacts — a passion that had slowly waned over the hundreds of museum visits spanning two to three decades.
In 2023, during the 75th Annual Exhibition, I had the privilege of joining hundreds, if not thousands, of visitors at the Nara National Museum in the city of Nara. The exhibition featured 59 treasures, with six of them unveiled to the public for the first time. Unsurprisingly, even on a weekday afternoon, the exhibition room was brimming with people.
This Year’s Must-see Highlights:
1. Quilted Kesa in Mottled Colours
Quilted Nine-Panel Kesa in Mottled Colours (Width 253 cm, Length 147 cm). Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
The first object on display is a unique one. Despite its appearance, which might be easily mistaken for a mere rag if placed outside a museum context, this rectangular piece of cloth holds profound significance.
Titled “Quilted Nine-Panel Kesa in Mottled Colours”, this kesa — the outer garment worn by Buddhist monks — was donated by Empress Komyo to the Great Buddha at Todai-ji following the passing of her husband, Emperor Shomu, the first Japanese emperor to become a Buddhist monk.
Emperor Shomu is believed to have donned this robe crafted from assorted silk scraps in varying colours, including red, blue, yellow, green, brown, and others, although some hues have faded with time. These silk remnants were carefully quilted into rectangular panels, and assembled to form the entire garment. This unique construction of utilising fabric scraps adheres to Buddha's stipulation as a symbol of the devotee's renunciation of worldly desires and attachments. The number of panels in the robe — in this case nine — also indicates the robe as a ceremonial or ritual attire.
What also makes this kesa important is that this is the very first item listed in the Record of the Nation’s Rare Treasures (Kokka chinpo cho), offering a glimpse into the inception of this millennial treasure trove. Shosoin preserves a total of nine kesa that belonged to Emperor Shomu, and this is just one of them.
While in storage, this kesa would be carefully enveloped in a silk wrapper, also on display. The wrapper features an exquisite light blue twill damask in a petal flower pattern, against a darker blue backdrop. Following this delicate wrapping, the kesa was then placed inside a lacquered leather box, protected with additional layers, and ultimately secured within a locked chest.
Details of a blue twill weave silk that served as the wrapper for Emperor Shomu’s kesa. When viewed in person, the silk exhibits a gentle sheen not captured in printed images. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
2. Biwa Lute
A biwa lute featuring a front panel adorned with a captivating scene portraying foreigners riding a white elephant. This rare depiction provides insight into the painting styles of the 8th century. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
Another intriguing exhibit that captured not only my attention but also that of other visitors was the biwa lute. Originating from Persia, the 4-stringed lute was introduced to Japan, through China, during the Nara period. The surface of the lute is adorned with captivating mother-of-pearl, tortoiseshell, and amber inlays, creating a realm populated with butterflies, birds, and clouds, as if simulating a scene of the paradise.
The meticulous kebori, or hairline engravings, applied onto the iridescent mother-of-pearl inlays breathe life into the petals, all masterfully adorning the one side of this musical instrument. It's only later that realises this ornate surface is just the back panel of the lute.
In contrast to the lavish ornamentation on the back, the lute’s front panel appears rather discreet. The leather plectrum guard, or bachimen, is painted with a scene originally coloured in green, blue, orange, red, and gold leaf on a white background. While the painting has worn with time, it remains visible thanks to its protective oil coating.
Upon closer examination, the scene unfolds: a group of foreigners, or Hu people, are seen immersed in music and dance on a white elephant. This joyful depiction is set against a magnificent backdrop of rugged mountains stretching into the distance, creating a striking sense of depth of field. The group of foreigners seems to have travelled from a distant land, where the red glowing sun sets in the background, toward which a flock of birds fly. This interplay of a joyful foreground and a solitary background adds an extra layer of fascination to this musical instrument.
This depiction is a rare example of Tang-dynasty (618–907) painting. However, it’s been suggested that the use of sappan-stained maplewood for the lute's body to simulate the more precious red sandalwood, alongside the substitution of abalone for the great green turbo shell (yakogai) inlay, indicates that the musical instrument was crafted in Japan.
Near the display case featuring the lute, a subtle melody plays out in the background, enriching the sensory experience of viewing this millennium-old musical instrument.
3. Bronze Mirror with Floral Design
The back side of a bronze mirror features an intricate floral design adorned with mother-of-pearl and amber inlays. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
Another treasure to marvel at is a bronze mirror adorned with an opulent floral design, exemplifying the pinnacle of raden, or mother-of-pearl, inlay technique. The intricate floral patterns come to life through the great green turbo shell and amber inlays. Peek beneath certain sections of the amber inlay, and you'll catch glimpses of the paintings beneath, adding an intriguing layer to its allure.
Much like the lute, this bronze mirror features meticulous engravings that breathe life into the blooming flowers and foliage, set against a background filled with scattering fragments of turquoise and coloured stone. Surprisingly, this sumptuous surface, rich in motif and material, is the mirror's back — the front, a plain and polished bronze surface designed for reflection. This object of marvel recalls a similar bronze mirror that graced the 70th Annual Exhibition, which left me breathless at first sight.
While bronze mirrors were common in ancient China, none have left me as awestruck as this masterpiece. Scientific analysis of the mirror's bronze composition aligns with those produced in China at the time, suggesting that the mirror's body may not have been made locally.
4. Lacquered Box with Silver Heidatsu for Mirror
A lacquered box, adorned with silver heidatsu, serves as an opulent casing for the bronze mirror. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
Bronze mirrors often find their sanctuary in tailor-made casing. But in the realm of extravagance, few can rival the opulence of a lacquered box showcased in this exhibition. Crafted from wood and covered with cloth and black lacquer, this box, boasting a diameter of nearly 30-centimeters, is a testament to luxury.
What sets this box apart is its embellishment with heidatsu, a lacquerware decorating technique that involves placing delicate cut-outs of metal sheets — silver in this case — onto the lacquered surface. The silver imparts a metallic sheen to the box, creating an illusion of an entirely metallic construction.
At a closer look, the heidatsu ornamentation unveils a mesmerising tapestry of floral roundels, where intricate bird figures reside. This delicate pattern showcases an exceptional level of finesse, reminiscent of the artistry found in embroidery.
I've often believed that the true artistry of an artisan lies in the transformation of materials. In this instance, the mirror box exists in a realm between metal and embroidery, serving as a prime example of the skilled prowess of its creator.
A detailed examination of the silver heidatsu ornamentation on the lacquered box unveils a tapestry of floral and fauna design. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
5. Ivory Ruler
A pristine white ivory shaku ruler, measuring 29.7 cm in length, 3.6 cm in width, and boasting a thickness of 1.1 cm. Image courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency
Among these cherished artefacts, an unassuming yet significant item demands attention — a simple white stick that turns out to be a ruler crafted from elephant tusk. This ruler, once owned by Emperor Shomu and documented in the Record of the Nation’s Rare Treasures, holds historical importance.
This ruler measures precisely at 29.7 centimeters, which isequivalent to one shaku (or about one foot) in the Tang dynasty's standard (called kara dai shaku in Japan). Its surface is marked with meticulously incised lines, dividing into ten sun, each further split into ten bu.
In the government's day-to-day affairs, having standardised units for measurements, both in length and weight, was crucial. This measuring tool goes beyond being a simple daily item for the emperor — it serves as a powerful symbol of authority. The ruler's precise and smooth cuts equally showcase the craftsmanship behind this emblem of imperial power.
Post-visit Afterthoughts
Reflecting on my visit to the 75th Annual Exhibition of Shosoin, I must admit that it lacked the initial excitement I felt years ago; some displays seemed all too familiar, and the wait before viewing each item diminishes the overall experience.
But don't let this discourage you from making a pilgrimage to Nara, especially if you’re planning one. The highlighted artefacts alone make the journey worthwhile, as encountering them in person surpasses any reproductions, whether in print or digital form.
Think of the Shosoin Repository as the eastern terminus of the Silk Road. During the Nara period, Japan embraced Tang China’s culture, flourishing through exchanges along this trade route that connected diverse corners of the world.
While the exhibition doesn't explicitly shows it, these treasures carry influences from the West, reaching as far as Greece, Rome, and Egypt. That said, the Shosoin treasures not only reflect the cultural zenith of Nara Japan, but also encapsulate the global achievements during the 8th century.
As a result of trade and exchange, these cultural artefacts embody a dynamic interplay of materials and ideas drawn from various parts of the world. The fusion of novel materials, techniques, and designs with existing ones gave rise to local adaptations, yielding treasures as exceptional as those found only in Shosoin.
Reference:
The 75th Annual Exhibition of Shōsō-in Treasures [Exhibition catalogue]. (2023). Nara National Museum.
The 75th Annual Exhibition of Shōsō-in Treasures was on view at the Nara National Museum in Nara, Japan, from October 28 to November 13, 2023.