Kulhad Chronicles: Savouring India’s Diverse Flavours in Terracotta Cups

Beyond the comforting blend of masala, kulhad chai encapsulates the essence of tradition, regional nuances, and the collective memories that define India as a nation.

Sense of Wander: ★★★☆☆

At Shiva Dhaba, a man efficiently takes orders and serves up steaming kulhad chai.

DELHI, India — We were travelling along the Yamuna Expressway from Delhi to Agra. It was late at night, and much of the highway was shrouded in near-pitch darkness, illuminated only bt the glow of our car lights.

After pulling into a rest area halfway through our road trip, we joined a lively crowd seeking respite from the long journey ahead. It was here, at a roadside restaurant known as dhaba (Hindi: ढाबा), near Jewar, where I had my first sip of kulhad chai — a moment that remains etched in my memory.

Kulhad, also known as kulhar (Hindi: कुल्हड़), refers to traditional terracotta cups typically left unpainted and unglazed. Kulhad chai, on the other hand, is simply chai (the Hindi word for “tea”) served in a kulhad.

Some of you may be wondering, how does chai served in a regular coated-paper cup or ceramic mug different from that served in a kulhad? Does it taste different? Keep reading to find out.

Many believe that kulhad enhances the overall taste of the beverage it contains. The porous nature of the terracotta imparts a unique “earthy” aroma to the drink, amplifying the richness of India’s diverse chai culture. While I couldn’t quite discern the “earthiness” in the kulhad chai, it certainly had more depth compared to chai served in a regular cup. The kulhad appears to provide a sturdy foundation for the spices to mingle in the hot, milky swirls.

Beyond mere taste, the tactile encounter with a kulhad becomes profoundly sensorial. Gripping the handleless kulhad differs significantly from holding a paper cup or a mug. Without the glossy or smooth surface of glazed ceramics, the rustic and somewhat rough texture of the terracotta vessel enhances every sip, leaving a warm imprint not only on your fingers but also on the soul yearning for a nostalgic embrace with Mother Earth.

Nestled along the Yamuna Expressway, Shiva Dhaba is where I first relished the flavours of kulhad chai.

Served in a rustic terracotta cup, my first taste of chai was remarkably memorable and remains the best I’ve enjoyed in India so far.

When did it all start?

With their earthy charm, these terracotta cups infuse traditional Indian beverages with an added layer of authenticity, creating a multi-sensory experience that delights the eyes, tantalises the taste buds, and invigorates the hands. Beyond the steaming cups and aromatic spices, this rich experience also beckons us to explore its tradition on the Indian subcontinent.

Though the exact origins of serving chai in kulhads remain elusive, the use of terracotta cups harks back to Indus Valley Civilisation (3300-1330 B.C.), when artisans honed their craft by fashioning vessels from locally available clay.

At Lassiwala, the quintessential destination in Jaipur for savouring the timeless Indian beverage, lassi is served in traditional kulhad.

Besides chai, there’s also something else.

In the heart of India’s cultural mosaic, the kulhad emerges as a versatile vessel. Traditionally used to serve hot beverages like chai in bazaars and food stalls, these porous terracotta cups transcend their role beyond chai, enriching the palette of other Indian beverages and culinary delights. From kulfi (traditional ice cream) to lassi (a yogurt-based beverage reminiscent of a smoothie), they offer a refreshing respite from the scorching sun.

During my stay in Jaipur, I had the pleasure of visiting the renowned lassi shop, Lassiwala, where I indulged in their signature kulhad lassi. I opted for the salted variation; its refreshing taste provided a welcome relief from the midday sun.

What sets this kulhad venture apart is the unique design of their cup, boasting intricate details that showcase the artistry of the moulding process. The tall silhouette and meticulous craftsmanship enhanced my enjoyment of the lassi, elevating the entire experience.

Are kulhads 100% sustainable?

In many places across India, kulhads have been gradually replaced by plastic-lined paper cups, favoured for their lightweight and lower cost when bought in bulk. However, the ban on plastic cups has accelerated the shift towards more sustainable alternatives, making kulhads an attractive option for those committed to reducing their ecological footprint.

While many perceive kulhads as entirely sustainable and eco-friendly, the reality may be more nuanced. It’s true that kulhads are biodegradable, often discarded immediately after use, as the terracotta cups swiftly dissolve into the ground, leaving no waste behind. However, the practice of immediate disposal may not necessarily be sustainable.

On the bright side, since kulhads are made through firing in a kiln and are almost never reused, they are inherently sterile and hygienic. Despite this, some vendors attempt to recycle intact kulhads to save a rupee or two, leading to the common sight of people breaking the kulhad cups straight after use.

While in India, I made a point of collecting all the kulhads I used during my travels and brought them back home with me. They aren’t just souvenirs from my trip; they allow me to continue enjoying my masala chai in the authentic Indian manner! With proper cleaning and maintenance, kulhads can be reused, offering me a heartfelt connection to India even when I’m far away.

Since my first encounter, kulhad chai has become my go-to wherever I travel in India. This one was enjoyed at a dhaba during my journey from Agra to Jaipur.

Ever since I had my first sip of kulhad chai, there was no return to ordering chai served in an ordinary cup. Whenever I come across food stall in the street, I would open my eyes and look for traces of kulhad. For me, sipping chai from a kulhad isn't just a routine; it's a journey through time — a sensory symphony served in rustic terracotta cups.

Over centuries, the use of kulhads became deeply intertwined with the cultural fabric of India. It evolved from a practical choice to a unique aspect of the chai-drinking ritual - it embodies tradition, sustainability, and a profound connection to the millennia-old heritage of the Indian subcontinent.

Kulhad, especially when serving chai, becomes a storyteller, unravelling the richness of India’s diverse flavours. Though silent in words, you’ll get to savour what it has to say, one sip at a time.

The next time I return to India, tandoori chai is definitely on my bucket list!

Where’s your go-to spot for your favourite kulhad chai? Drop your recommendations in the comments below!

Savouring my last kulhad chai of the trip along on the highways from Jaipur to Delhi, I was particularly drawn to the rounded bottom design of this terracotta cup.

Tips for wanderer — for a sip of Indian culture:

• Shiva Dhaba [4H5F+9WF, Yamuna Expressway, Gautam Buddh Nagar, Jewar]
  - This has quickly become my favourite spot, not just because it’s where I had my first-ever kulhad chai, but also because it offers a perfect respite from the road trip hustle, allowing you to unwind and savour the piping hot beverage. If you find yourself journeying from Delhi to Agra, make sure to make a pit stop at Shiva Dhaba halfway through.

• Lassiwala [Shop 312, Mirza Ismail Rd, Jayanti Market, Pink City, Jaipur]