Wander in India: Swaminarayan Akshardham

While wandering in India’s capital, I stumbled upon Swaminarayan Akshardham, a relatively young Hindu temple. Little did I know that within its sacred confines lay an experience that would lead me down an unexpected path.

Sense of Wander: ★★★★☆

Swaminarayan Akshardham in New Delhi stands as the epitome of India’s timeless architectural traditions, embodying millennia-old craftsmanship and heritage. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

NEW DELHI, India — In a country where the majority of its population practices Hinduism, India boasts an abundance of Hindu temples. Surrounded by millennia-old architectural marvels, it’s understandable that only a select few would be drawn to a temple completed in our time. After all, why venture to a new temple when there are countless others steeped in history and heritage?

I, too, harbored these reservations before embarking on my visit to Swaminarayan Akshardham in New Delhi. Could a temple completed as recently as 2005 truly be worth a visit? Was it worth venturing outside the city limits for this experience? Were there not more revered temples that I could visit instead?

My skepticism only intensified upon learning about the stringent rules governing our visit. While it’s customary for certain places to prohibit cameras, I was taken aback when I discovered that phones were strictly prohibited within the complex of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

The thought of leaving my phone behind initially agitated me. What if something went wrong, and I was unable to reach out for help or connect with my family living afar? With doubts and anxiety swirling in my mind, I unwillingly left my phone in the car with our driver and proceeded towards the temple’s security checkpoint.

As anticipated, the security measures were strict, with thorough bag checks and intimate body scans. Despite the inconvenience, little did I realise that Swaminarayan Akshardham would soon emerge as one of my favourite Hindu temples on this journey.

Once through the security check, I passed through the large and ornate Bhakti Dewar — or Gate of Devotion. This gate is stunning as it celebrates the Indian tradition of devotion with 208 sculptural depictions of God and his ideal devotee. Before we know it, the view of Swaminarayan Akshardam enters our sight.

After clearing the security check, I proceeded through the grand and intricately designed Bhakti Dwar, also known as the Gate of Devotion. This magnificent gate celebrates the Indian tradition of devotion through more than two hundred sculptural depictions of God and his devoted followers. As I continued, the breathtaking sight of Swaminarayan Akshardham came into view before us, captivating our senses.

Before proceeding towards the mandir, or temple, there’s a designated area for storing our shoes. Like many of you, I first assumed that removing our shoes was a gesture to maintain cleanliness and show respect for the Akshardham, or the “abode of the divine.” But once I removed my shoes and began walking barefoot on the marble floor, I was overwhelmed by this unique sensation. Initially, the marble felt cold, particularly on that overcast day where the sun was notably absent. Yet, gradually, my feet adapted to its touch. In that moment, I experienced a profound sense of connection, as if my physical body came into harmony with a greater force of nature — one that transcends mere words.

The Swaminarayan Akshardham mandir is elevated upon a base known as Gajendra Peeth, adorned with a frieze of vividly-rendered elephants. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

“In that moment, I experienced a profound sense of connection, as if my physical body came into harmony with a greater force of nature — one that transcends mere words.”

A temple that began with a dream..

The highlight of the Swaminarayan Akshardham complex is the mandir, encircled by a sacred body of water known as Narayan Sarovar. This holy expanse accentuates the sanctuary as the ultimate destination for pilgrimage.

It wasn't until I approached the mandir that I realised its significance as an epitome of over 10,000 years of Indian culture! The construction of the mandir adheres closely to ancient Indian treatises and architectural science. Its design was guided by the Shilpa Shastras, an ancient Hindu text that prescribes the principles of sculpture, iconography, composition, and rules of architecture. As I admired this architectural marvel before me, I couldn’t help but acknowledge that its strict adherence to tradition is perhaps why the mandir, though finished as recently as 2005, exudes an archaic yet authentic charm.

The mandir stands proudly atop an elevated platform adorned with a row of ornate friezes depicting elephants. Referred to as the Gajendra Peeth, or Elephant Plinth, these intricate carvings convey various values through stories and legends of elephants interacting with nature, humans, and the divine.

In ancient India, elephants have always held a place of reverence, celebrated for their strength. Throughout the centuries, these gentle giants have dutifully shouldered burdens, from goods to monumental stones. And now, in a remarkable display of tradition, they bear the weight of an entire mandir upon their backs.

Yet, what many may not realise is that this tradition of Gajendra Peeth stretches far back into the annals of history, woven into the architectural practices of ancient palaces and mandirs before the 12th century.

Here, the Gajendra Peeth depicts a timeless tale from the ancient Indian fable Panchatantra. In this scene, a lion summons an elephant to carry a vulnerable goat, seeking refuge from other predators. The underlying message conveyed here is clear: By seeking refuge in the Great, even the weak can achieve greatness. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

Spanning 316 feet in width, 356 feet in length, and soaring 141.3 feet into the sky, the mandir boasts a remarkable scale. Its architectural splendour includes 234 intricately carved pillars, 9 ornate domes, and an astounding 20,000 statues of Hindu iconography.

The outer wall, known as the mandovar, stands as a testament to unparalleled craftsmanship, believed to be the largest and most intricately carved in India over the past 800 years. Rising 25 feet high, the facade is adorned with 200 sculpted figures representing India’s revered figures. From bottom to top, it depicts an ascension from the realm of the mundane to the pinnacle of spiritual realisation: beginning with animals and flowers, then progressing to representations of avatars, sages, devas, and devotees, before culminating in figures symbolising individuals striving for spiritual elevation in life. When observed up close, the carvings reveal an extraordinary level of detail and depth, offering viewers a nearly 360-degree panorama of artistry.

Let’s not forget the astounding scale of this architectural achievement: more than 300,000, crafted over 300 million hours of labour, were employed in its construction, all accomplished in just five years! What’s even more remarkable is that this architecture was built entirely without the use of metal.

The stone sculpting process took place in two expansive workshops located in Rajasthan: Pindvada, located 600 kilometres away, and Sikandra, a closer distance of 250 kilometres. Additionally, 24 workshops were established in villages surrounding Sikandra, engaging over 7,000 artisans for this monumental project. The stones were sourced from quarries in Bansipahadpur, approximately 400 kilometres from Delhi. Each stone’s design was meticulously finalised by sadhus, drawing upon extensive research from Shilpa Shastras.

None of this would have been conceivable without the vision of Yogiji Maharaj (1921-2016), who, in 1968, envisioned that “a mandir shall be built on the banks of the Yamuna.” It took 32 years to acquire the land, and the fulfillment of the guru’s wish was overseen by his successor, Pramukh Swami Maharaj (1933-present).

Every corner of the Swaminarayan Akshardham mandir’s exterior is adorned with intricately carved iconographies drawn from the Hindu beliefs. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

The outer facade of the Swaminarayan Akshardham mandir inspires its visitors with vividly carved images of enlightened individuals and divine beings. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

Entering the mandir of Swaminarayan Akshardam…

In Hindu tradition, performing pradakshinas, or circumambulations, around the mandir is a customary practice — a sign of respect and prayer. Those who undertake these circumambulations encounter the path adorned with bronze panels known as Narayan Peeth, depicting divine incidents from the life of Swaminarayan (1781-1830). Due to time constraints, I didn’t have the opportunity to perform the circumambulations and proceeded directly towards the temple entrance.

As I entered the mandir, a profound sense of serenity and peace enveloped me. Without a camera or phone, I tried to absorb every detail with my eyes in the limited time I had. Yet, the sheer abundance of sights before me overwhelmed my senses, making it impossible to capture everything in a single glance.

The interior of the mandir can be divided into 9 mandapams or sections, each adorned with an exquisite dome, reminiscent of intricate lacework, supported by pillars. Each mandapam features a murti, a devotional image, at its centre, adding to the sacred ambiance of the surroundings.

While wandering in the mandir, I was fascinated by the design of the a dome from inside. Looking up, I found myself standing beneath the central point of the domed ceiling. At its heart, a seated figure emerged against a backdrop of intricate vegetal patterns, seemingly radiating divine light. Though the dome, supported by pillars reaching up to 32 feet high, was quite distant from where I stood, I couldn’t tear my eyes away. It was as though there was a magnetic pull drawing my gaze, evoking within me a profound sense of tranquility unlike any I had experienced before. It was only later that I found out the murti in the centre is Bhagwan Swaminarayan, seated beneath a sprawling neem tree. 

Standing beneath the domed ceiling of Sahajanad Mandapam, I was overwhelmed by the divine energy it exudes. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

Wait, who is Swaminarayan?

As I continued to wander in the mandir, my gaze was met by depictions of India’s revered devotees, great avatars and celestial beings. It wasn’t long before I encountered the imposing statue of Bhagwan Swaminarayan, positioned at the heart of the inner sanctum, or garbhagruh, of the mandir. Standing at 11 feet tall and weighing 2.6 tons, this giant statue commands visitors’ attention.

Born as Ghanshyam Pande, this teenage yogi embarked on a remarkable journey at the tender age of 11, traversing the Indian subcontinent barefoot for 7 years. Known as Neelkanth Varni during his travels, he sought to inspire individuals to lead purposeful lives in accordance with the principles of dharma. Along the way, he achieved numerous feats, including abolishing heinous practices such as sati (the Hindu custom of a widow burning herself to death on the funeral of her husband) and female infanticide, transforming lawless individuals into devout followers, and amassing a following of over a million of devotees.

Inside the mandir, a sequence of coloured illustrations portrays pivotal moments from the life and teachings of Bhagwan Swaminarayan. Additionally, items sanctified by Bhagwan Swaminarayan during his lifetime are preserved for darshan (the Hindu custom of beholding a divine image or sacred object), located just behind the inner sanctum.

The level of artisanal detail found in Swaminarayan Akshardham’s stone carvings is simply breathtaking. Image courtesy of Swaminarayan Akshardham.

Leaving the mandir behind me…

You might find it hard to believe that I walked out of the mandir a different person — and I won’t go that far. But I can tell you this: the visit changed something inside me, stirring thoughts I hadn't considered before.

Part of what made the experience so unique was the sheer grandeur of the place. It’s mind-boggling to think that this magnificent monument, nestled within a sprawling 100-acre complex, was erected in just five short years. And yet, every nook and cranny is adorned with such intricate detail that it feels like there’s a new discovery waiting around every corner.

These elaborate designs and detailed carvings also provoke contemplation on the inconceivable divinity of a higher force and the beauty it inspires in creation, and the profound potential of human creativity.

As I bid farewell to Akshardham, an unusual sense of lightness surged within me, as if my soul and body had been purified and cleansed by the sanctuary’s energy — a sensation akin to coming out of a rejuvenating yoga class or meditation session.

To my surprise, the absence of my phone throughout the visit didn’t end up triggering much anxiety. Wandering barefoot in the Akshardam complex, I experienced a profound sense of openness, fully embracing everything the place had to offer.

Immersed in its energy, my senses, often dulled by the monotony of daily life, were reawakened. This led me to the realisation that perhaps true connection with the divine can only be forged when we intentionally disconnect from the world around us, regardless of our religious beliefs.

Ultimately, religion isn’t about constraining us but rather about opening us up to new experiences. Just as Neelkanth Varni embarked on a transformative journey across India, a new path seemed to unfold before me, beckoning me to explore — and I’m happy to say that I’ve already taken my first step.

Reference:
(2023). Swaminarayan Akshardam, New Delhi. Swaminarayan Aksharpith.
(2006). Swaminarayan Akshardam: Making & Experience (3rd ed.). Swaminarayan Aksharpith.