Little India: Where All Your Senses Awaken
If you ever feel like your senses have been dulled by the hustle and bustle of urban life, a visit to Singapore’s Little India will awaken them.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
On the wall of the Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple is a high-relief depiction of Shiva, in the form of Sharabha, subduing Narasimha.
SINGAPORE — For those of you who have followed my blog, you’re likely familiar with my series Wander in India, where I shared my experience from my first trip to India earlier this year. Fascinated by the richness of Indian arts and culture, I couldn’t pass up a visit to Little India on my recent trip to Singapore.
Before going, I had imagined Little India to be just a few streets lined with Indian shops and restaurants, much like in other cities where Indian communities thrive. But when I arrived, it exceeded my expectations. It felt as if parts of India had been transported from the subcontinent to the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula! Think I’m exaggerating? Read on to find out.
Street signs in Little India are displayed in both English and Hindi.
A view of the streets in Little India early in the morning.
While wandering in Little India, you’ll come across beautiful murals inspired by Indian arts and culture.
On my first morning in Singapore, just as the sun rises, I grab a cup of teh tarik at Kampong Gelam and head north towards Little India. Since it’s still early, I find myself among the very few people walking on the streets.
I know I’ve arrived in Little India when I see a street sign written in Hindi. As I continue walking, small restaurants and grocery stores selling goods from India begin to appear.
But how did this area, nestled on the east side of Singapore River, transform into the Little India we know today? What’s the story behind it?
In the 19th century, Little India was originally a European area used for cattle trading. Over time, Indian migrant workers who specialised in the trade settled in the area, finding job opportunities. As European farmers and traders moved out in the early 20th century, following the draining of the Serangoon River, the neighbourhood gradually evolved into an ethnically Indian enclave.
The Indian Heritage Centre offers an overview of the history, arts, and culture of the Indian subcontinent over the millennia, as well as the contributions of Indians to the formation of Singaporean society.
As I stroll down Campbell Lane, where the Indian Heritage Centre stands, I find myself enveloped by an array of shops showcasing items and gadgets representative of what we know as “India”: statues and figurines of Buddha and Hindu deities, colourful handicrafts, patterned skirts and trousers, and hanging lanterns. The air is filled with the fragrance of jasmine and fresh flower garlands, at times blending with the rich aroma of burnt sandalwood.
Each storefront diffuses a different scent, tantalising my senses and prompting me to guess its origin. Whether it’s wood, flowers, or spices, these scents capture the spirit of India.
Since it’s still early, I decide to visit the Indian Heritage Centre, which offers an extensive collection of cultural and religious artefacts from across the Indian subcontinent. Having studied Indian art history in my postgraduate studies, I’m particularly impressed by the diverse range of items on display — religious sculptures, decorative arts, crafts, costumes, and jewellery. The exhibition features an array of traditional Indian jewellery, a subject I plan to explore in depth in another article.
Whether you’re familiar with Indian culture or new to it, the Indian Heritage Centre offers you a glimpse into the rich civilisation that the land of Bharat has nurtured for millennia.
The shops along Campbell Lane offer a diverse array of items and goods from India.
In Little India, colourful figurines of Buddha and Hindu deities are available for purchase as souvenirs.
In Little India, a handful of flower vendors offer fresh blooms for puja ceremonies.
Serangoon Road is Little India’s main thoroughfare, home to commercial hubs like the Tekka Centre, Little India Arcade, and Mustafa Centre. This very street is also lined with jewellery stores specialising in gold necklaces, bangles, and rings. You’ll also find places of worship along this main road — not only that of Hinduism but also Islam.
Among the various Hindu temples, the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, and Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple stand out. Though I had previously visited Hindu temples in India, it wasn’t until I attended my first puja here that I truly felt the connection to worship, as well as the central role religion plays in people’s lives (you can read more about this in my article, Experiencing Puja: A Peek into Hindu Worship).
When you visit these temples during prayer time, you’ll hear Hindu priests chanting mantras and performing arti with lit oil lamps. All visitors — non-Hindu included — are invited to pay tribute to the deity, receive blessings, and mark their foreheads with a tilak.
The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple stands out as a prominent landmark for visitors to Little India.
In Little India, it's not unusual to see a Chinese-owned shop, like the pawnshop in the photo, nestled between an Indian restaurant and an Indian jewellery store.
Throughout my stay, I made a daily pilgrimage to Serangoon Road to dine at Komala Vilas Restaurant, which has been serving Indian vegetarian classics since 1947. I indulged in dosa, a type of crispy crepe that can be either stuffed or plain, every day. At noon, I would order the dosa set meal, which came with three types of chutneys and vegetables, all beautifully served on a banana leaf. Even on my last day, before heading to the airport, I couldn’t leave without enjoying my breakfast at Komala.
When you order masala chai at the restaurant, you’ll receive two tin cups: a wide, empty cup and a regular tin cup filled with the spiced tea. After observing other regulars, I learned that the two cups are used for “pulling” the tea — pouring it back and forth between the cups. This technique, commonly used for consuming teh tarik, not only blends the spices more thoroughly but also cools the tea to the ideal drinking temperature. Now, I’ve discovered another way to enjoy chai, in addition to the traditional kulhad chai.
Komala Vilas Restaurant is renowned for its dosa.
In addition to the few mosques scattered throughout the area, you might expect everything in Little India to be distinctly Indian. However, the Former House of Tan Teng Niah surprises with its vibrant, rainbow-coloured facade. This two-storey Chinese villa bursts with a psychedelic palette that stands out amidst its surroundings.
While its striking colours may appear to fit the Indian aesthetic, the building is dominated by traditional Chinese architectural features. These include gilded calligraphy, a bamboo-tiled roof, ornate floral lunettes, and decorative elements beneath the roof. that resemble Tibetan prayer flags.
Tan Teng Niah, a prominent Chinese businessman with several candy and rubber factories in the area, resided here. Built in 1900, the Former House of Tan Teng Niah is the last surviving example of its kind in Little India, reflecting a bygone era when Chinese industries coexisted with the local cattle and rattan trades. It also offers a glimpse into an often-overlooked chapter in Singapore’s history.
To fully explore what Little India has to offer, visitors can follow the landmarks listed in the Little India Heritage Trail.
I must admit that Little India, along with Kampong Gelam, has become one of my favourite places in Singapore. I was so fascinated by this neighbourhood that I returned daily during my brief stay — savouring authentic dosa to delight my taste buds and visiting Hindu temples to nourish my soul. I immersed myself in every experience Little India had to offer.
Though I’m not from India, I’ve always felt a strong connection to its arts and culture. In Little India, I never felt like a stranger but rather as if I were returning home.
Reflecting on my time there, I realise that what draws me to Little India is how it awakens the senses dulled by the hustle and bustle of everyday life. It’s a place where I feel alive.