Wander in India: Agra’s Love Trail
Join me on this journey through the “Love Itinerary,” a curated adventure designed for anyone seeking to uncover the magic of love in Agra.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★☆
View of the Taj Mahal from the Agra Fort, offering a breathtaking perspective of the iconic monument in the distance.
AGRA, India — Just a stone’s throw away from the bustling metropolis of Delhi lies Agra, a city steeped in the rich tapestry of romance and history that defines India. Yet, it's not just its proximity to the capital that makes Agra unmissable; Agra beckons travellers with the irresistible promise of immersing themselves in its unique blend of cultural heritage.
Nestled on the banks of the Yamuna River, Agra finds its home in the fertile doab region, cradled between the sacred waters of the Ganga and Yamuna rivers. Its name, derived from the Sanskrit word “Agravan,” meaning “front of the forest,” hints at its ancient origins. A mention in India’s revered epic, Mahabharata, reveals Agra’s storied past as the ancestral territory of Lord Krishna’s father, nestled amidst lush forests.
The history bits…
Revered as a time capsule of the Mughal Empire’s legacy (1526–1857), Agra has always been a strategic and cultural epicenter in the Indian subcontinent.
Before the arrival of the Mughals, the Lodi Dynasty (1451-1526), originating from Afghanistan, played a significant role in shaping Agra’s history. Under the reign of Sikander Lodi (reigned 1489-1517), the Lodi Empire relocated its capital from Delhi to Agra, laying the groundwork for the city’s historical importance.
The demise of the Lodi Dynasty came with Ibrahim Lodi’s (reigned 1517-1526) fateful encounter with Babur, founder of the Mughal Empire, at the Battle of Panipat in 1526. This pivotal moment marked the transition to the Mughal era, where Agra’s destiny would be forever intertwined with that of the empire.
While the Lodi Dynasty’s influence is evident in certain monuments, it was the Mughals who left an indelible mark on Agra’s cultural and architectural landscape.
Agra reached its zenith during the 16th and 17th centuries when it served as the capital of the Mughal Empire. This era witnessed a flourishing of art, architecture, and intellectual pursuits under the patronage of illustrious emperors such as Akbar (reigned 1556-1605), Jahangir (reigned 1605-1627), and Shah Jahan (reigned 1628-1658).
The architectural marvels that grace Agra’s skyline, including the majestic Agra Fort, the enchanting Fatehpur Sikri, and the timeless Taj Mahal, stand as testaments to the Mughals’ unparalleled cultural legacy and artistic ingenuity.
Wandering through the City of Love wearing traditional sari and jutti.
As the history unfurls before us, one question lingers in the air: why does Agra hold the title of the “City of Love”? While the world often looks to the Taj Mahal as a shimmering ode to eternal love, my recent trip to Agra uncovered a secret far more enchanting than I could have imagined.
During my visit, I came to realise that love pulses through the very veins of Agra. As I wandered through its hidden gardens and bustling streets, I found myself immersed in a tapestry of love stories woven into the fabric of the city’s historic monuments and cultural landscape.
If you ever find yourself exploring North India, don’t miss the chance to spend a night in Agra. But even if you can’t, don’t worry. I invite you to join me on a journey through the Love Trail, a curated itinerary designed for those eager to uncover the magic of love in unexpected places. By the end of this virtual trip, I hope you’ll discover the true essence of why Agra is celebrated as the “City of Love.”
Ready? Off we go…!
Love is Eternal: The Taj Mahal
Up-close view of the Taj Mahal captured from Mehtab Bagh, highlighting the majestic beauty of the city’s ultimate symbol of love.
Undoubtedly, the ultimate symbol of love and the crowning jewel of Agra is the iconic Taj Mahal. The name “Taj Mahal,” of Urdu origin, translates to “crown palace.”
Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1631, the Taj Mahal stands as a testament to his enduring love for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who tragically passed away while giving birth to their 14th child. Contemporary historians recount Shah Jahan’s profound grief, noting his withdrawal from royal affairs for a week and from extravagance for two years as he mourned the loss of his beloved wife.
As I stepped into this symbol of eternal love and architectural brilliance, a refreshing coolness enveloped me. The cold white marble from Makrana offered solace from the morning sun’s intense embrace, providing welcome relief from its passionate warmth.
The Taj Mahal’s impeccable symmetry and intricate stone inlay work, featuring Arabic calligraphy and ornate vegetal designs, left me in awe. Beyond being a mere mausoleum, it stands as a timeless testament to an emperor’s eternal love for his empress, immortalised in marble.
Best time to visit: For first-time visitors, I recommend visiting the Taj Mahal early in the morning. As the sun rises, its gentle light bathes the pristine marbled architecture, creating a truly breathtaking sight. Night viewing of the Taj Mahal is also available on selected dates, such as full moon nights. While I’ve heard that the monument looks magnificent under the full moon, I haven’t had the opportunity to experience it personally.
Hours needed: At least 2 hours
Love is Companionship: The Black Taj
Within the Mehtab Bagh complex, visitors will find remnants believed to be the foundation of the Black Taj, nestled beside the tranquil waters of the Yamuna River.
While the Taj Mahal stands as a testament to Shah Jahan’s immortal love for Mumtaz Mahal, the legend of the Black Taj adds another layer to the city’s romantic narrative.
Legend has it that Shah Jahan envisioned the Black Taj as a counterpart to the Taj Mahal, intending it to be built in black marble as his final resting place, echoing the elegance and grandeur of its white counterpart.
However, the Black Taj was never completed due to Shah Jahan’s overthrow by his son Aurangzeb. Although it remains but a dream, its unrealised vision serves as a poignant reminder of the Mughal emperor’s love and grief. As I wandered through the site where the Black Taj was meant to stand, I couldn’t help but imagine what it would have felt like to be dwarfed by the imposing presence of the Black Taj.
Immersed in this romantic tale, it’s fascinating to discover that its origin dates back to Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605–1689), one of the first European visitors to the Taj Mahal in 1665. While some scholars dismiss this account as mere fiction, others speculate about its historical roots, suggesting that the foundations of the “Black Taj” may have been remnants of a garden enclosure built by Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire.
Further adding to the intrigue is an archaeological reconstruction of the pool in Mehtab Bagh — literally “Moonlight Garden” — in 2006, revealing a dark reflection of the white mausoleum, just in line with Shah Jahan’s obsession with symmetry.
Whether fact or fiction, the romantic narrative surrounding the Black Taj encapsulates the enduring theme of love that permeates Agra. Indeed, the echoes of this unrealised dream weave a tapestry of romance and mystique that cements Agra’s status as the quintessential “City of Love.”
Best time to visit: Remnants of the Black Taj can be explored at any time of the day. However, since it’s located in Mehtab Bagh — with views of the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River — I recommend arriving before sunset. Seize the opportunity to witness the white mausoleum bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. And don’t forget to prepare for some leisurely walks within the garden!
Hours needed: Less than 1 hour
Love is Universal: The Baby Taj
The Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah, lovingly referred to as the Baby Taj, is a hidden gem in Agra.
Nestled along the romantic trail of Agra lies the Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah, a radiant gem in white marble adorned with intricate designs. Celebrated for its splendid stone inlay work, this architectural marvel earns its nickname as the “Jewel Box.”
Believed to be a precursor to the iconic Taj Mahal, the Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah is also referred to as the “Baby Taj.” Yet, it’s important to note that this architectural gem holds a significance beyond its aesthetic charm.
Commissioned by Nur Jahan, the formidable empress of the 17th-century Mughal Empire, this exquisite mausoleum stands as a tribute to her beloved father, Mirza Ghiyas Beg.
The Baby Taj whispers a tale of filial devotion; it bears witness to the timeless theme of love — one that transcends mere romantic partnerships to illuminate the loving bonds of family across generations. Its delicate craftsmanship and serene ambiance mirror the affection that inspired its creation.
As mentioned in the article, “Legacy in Stones: Mughal Inlay Art as Treasured Indian Craft,” my admiration for the Baby Taj surpasses that of the Taj Mahal, primarily due to the level of intricacy observed in its stone inlay work. After delving into the history of this mausoleum, the kaleidoscopic design adorning its exterior appears to narrate the Mughal empress’s profound affection for her father.
This heartfelt tale of love and loss as embodied by the Baby Taj enriches Agra’s status as the “City of Love.”
Best time to visit: Though I visited the Baby Taj in the afternoon, I would recommend exploring it at any time of the day. Visiting on a sunny day is particularly rewarding, as it allows the colours of the hard stones inlaid in the white marble to truly come to life.
Hours needed: 1 hour
Love is Devotion: Jama Masjid
A stone’s throw away from the Agra Fort stands the Jama Masjid, a prime example of a 17th-century congregational mosque commissioned by the Mughals.
The Jama Masjid, also known as the Jama Mosque, stands as a testament to devotion in the heart of Agra. Dating back to the 17th century, it was commissioned by Jahanara Begum, the eldest daughter of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.
According to the official court chronicle, Shahjahannama, the Jama Masjid was born from an imperial decree by Shah Jahan himself, who mandated the construction of a new mosque in Agra. It was his daughter, Jahanara Begum, who sought permission to personally fund the mosque’s creation.
Completed in 1648, the mosque is conveniently located just a short rickshaw ride away from the Agra Fort. As we made our way, we passed bustling streets lined with local shops. Interestingly, the area surrounding the Jama Masjid was once an expansive open space known as the Triplolia Chowk. Sadly, it was demolished in the 19th century to make room for the railway station.
Upon arrival, I was struck by the mosque’s elevated position on a podium, and the presence of a few policemen guarding the entrance. Climbing a flight of stairs, I was greeted by a vast open-air courtyard, or sahn, spanning an impressive 1,200 square metres. At the centre of this courtyard lay a square-shaped pool for ablutions.
Constructed mainly from red sandstone, the mosque’s exterior facade is inlaid with white marble and black hardstone, creating striking and harmonious geometric designs. Inscriptions from the Quran also adorn part of its facade, bringing the holy text to life through the art of stone inlay.
As I stood before the entrance to the mosque, I couldn’t help but be awestruck by the sheer beauty of its architecture, which felt distinctly different from Delhi’s Jama Masjid. It’s no wonder that the Jama Masjid in Agra has garnered comparisons to Bait-ul-Ma'mur (in Arabic: الْبَيْتِ الْمَعْمُورِ), a mosque said to be constructed with pearls and rubies and believed to reside in the highest Heaven.
Despite being ranked as the city’s second most-visited site after the Taj Mahal, the Jama Masjid was surprisingly empty during my visit, perhaps because it wasn't prayer time. Yet, amidst its peaceful ambiance, the rooftop of the sanctuary presented a lively spectacle, bustling with pigeons seeking shelter. This lively scene not only added a unique charm to this place of worship, but also marked the spot where I encountered the largest congregation of pigeons during my travels across India.
Best time to visit: I visited the Jama Masjid immediately after my visit to the Agra Fort, which is just a stone’s throw away. Personally, I believe it would be best to visit the mosque during congregational prayer time to experience firsthand how this 17th-century mosque still plays a vital role in the everyday life of the Muslim community in Agra.
Hours needed: Half an hour
Love is Showing: Mohabbat the Taj show
The love story of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal comes to life at the Mohabbat the Taj show. Image sourced from the Internet.
For all the romantics out there, a visit to Agra is incomplete without experiencing the Mohabbat the Taj show at the Kalakriti Cultural & Convention Centre.
While Agra’s historic monuments, as mentioned earlier, exude romance, the Mohabbat the Taj show brings to life the legendary love story of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, the very narrative that culminated in the creation of the Taj Mahal.
The show brings this tale of love to life with captivating dance performances, Indian music, and soulful songs. While I found it to be somewhat touristy and pricey compared to local standards, it provides a fascinating glimpse into the rich traditions of Indian performing arts.
Not fluent in Hindi? No worries! The show offers headsets with translations in different languages, so everyone can fully enjoy the spectacle!
Best time to visit: The show runs daily at 18:30.
Hours needed: Approximately 2 hours
Love is in the Air: Everyday Life
At a Muslim wedding in Agra, guests are seen enjoying the catering and chatting with friends while awaiting the arrival of the bride and groom.
The City of Love isn’t just about history — it’s about experiencing love in its most vibrant form: at a wedding. And what better place to celebrate love than in India!
During my time in Agra, I had the privilege of attending a Muslim wedding. Although I didn’t witness the entire ceremony, I was captivated by the grand entrance of the groom, whose face was veiled with floral garlands and adorned with an elaborate noton ki mala (“garlands of money”) around his neck.
While awaiting the bride’s arrival, guests indulged in a delightful banquet featuring local delicacies such as mutton biryani, tandoori chicken, pani puri, and gajar ka halwa. Interestingly, I discovered that masala chai wasn’t available, as only coffee was served — considered a more “high class” option.
In the City of Love, the historic monuments stand as tangible expressions of profound affection. Without filial devotion, landmarks like the Tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah would never have graced the landscape. The realisation of the Tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah also paved the way for the grandeur of the Taj Mahal, a testament to Shah Jahan’s unparalleled love for his wife Mumtaz.
Agra, at its heart, is a treasure trove of romance — not only that between lovers but also one that transcends generations. While wandering through the City of Love, it feels as though every marble facade bears witness to the timelessness of affection. And if you pay close attention, you might notice that love is intertwined with every heartbeat of the city.
Indeed, Agra is often seen as more than just a tourist destination; it’s a living museum, seamlessly blending its historical legacy into the modern narrative. But in my view, amidst its storied past and architectural wonders, it’s the countless tales of love that breathe life into Agra.