Wander in Vancouver: A Taste of Persian Culture
To the north of Vancouver Harbour lies North Vancouver, where you’re invited to explore the rich culture of Persia and its vibrant community.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★☆
Looking out to North Vancouver across Vancouver Harbour.
VANCOUVER, Canada — Though North Vancouver is just a stone’s throw from Downtown Vancouver, I had never ventured beyond my occasional trips to the Capilano Suspension Bridge — until now.
On this trip, I step out of my comfort zone and dive into the heart of North Vancouver. I’m here for a things: the Polygon Gallery, the Inuit Gallery of Vancouver, and a Persian restaurant recommended by a new acquaintance.
After visiting the galleries near Lonsdale Quay, I walk up Lonsdale Avenue toward the restaurant. Instead of taking the bus, I decide to take the uphill walk, eager to feel the warmth of the sun and admire the maple leaves, their colours transformed by autumn’s brush.
As I approach the intersection of Lonsdale Avenue and 15th Street, I start to notice Persian script on some of the signposts. It’s my first time seeing English and Persian side by side, and the experience feels surprisingly unique. It gives me a strange — almost disorienting — sense of being lost, even though I know exactly where I am.
Though I don’t speak Persian, I can read the Arabic script. As I tune into my linguistic radar for Arabic, a sense of familiarity arises. I can pick out some words: امور تجاری (business affairs), مهاجرت (immigration), and شركت ها (companies) — thanks to their similarities to Arabic.
Persian script is prominent on the storefronts of Persian restaurants.
The Persian community in North Vancouver was established in the late 20th century, when many Iranians began settling in the area following political unrest in Iran. Their presence have enriched the region's cultural fabric by introducing unique traditions and culinary experiences from their homeland.
As I wander through the Persian community along Lonsdale Avenue, I hear passersby speaking Persian, and for a moment, it feels as though I’ve been brought to Iran.
I head to Shishlik Grill House (شیشلیک), a restaurant recommended by Yekta, a kind Iranian woman I had the pleasure of chatting with at a downtown bank. When I push open the door to the restaurant, I’m surprised to find it still packed with diners well after lunchtime. It stays busy for the next hour or so as we dine. Fortunately, I manage to snag the last table without a reservation.
Though it’s not my first time trying Persian cuisine, it certainly is rare to find a restaurant that exclusively serves Persian dishes rather than blending in other Middle Eastern specialties.
Mirza Ghasemi, a grilled aubergine dip, has become one of my favourite Persian dishes.
If I had more than one stomach, I’d want to try everything on the menu. But coming back to reality, I know I have to be mindful of my choices.
To start, I order Mirza Ghasemi (میرزا قاسمی), a grilled aubergine dip made with tomatoes and fried onions, topped with a boiled egg.
I’ve always loved aubergine, especially when it carries a smoky flavour from roasting or grilling. This has led me to try baba ghanouj (a Middle Eastern dip made from roasted aubergine, blended with tahini, garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil) and baingan bharta (a smoky mashed aubergine dish in Indian cuisine).
This is my first time trying the Persian version of grilled aubergine, and I absolutely love it. It’s charred to perfection, and I could easily finish the whole serving with pita bread on my own.
Ash Reshteh is a beloved Persian dish traditionally enjoyed during Norooz, the Persian New Year celebrations.
Next comes Ash Reshteh (آش رشته), a hearty Persian noodle soup packed with fresh herbs and legumes. The soup has a rich green colour and a strong dill flavour, complemented by parsley and spinach. This is the greenest soup I’ve ever come across, and the dill reminds me of Shivit Oshii (dill noodles) I tried in Uzbekistan.
The soup is topped with a charcoal-like powder, which I later find out is dried mint. The aroma of crispy fried shallots feels familiar, as they’re a common topping in Taiwanese cuisine, often used in street food and local dishes. I’m surprised to discover this essential topping in Persian cuisine.
Ash Reshteh is a beloved dish often enjoyed during Norooz, the Persian New Year. What I particularly love about it is the use of kashk (کشک), a liquid whey from fermented yogurt. Its creamy, tangy flavour adds a refreshing depth to the soup. An extra bowl of kashk is served on the side, allowing diners to adjust the flavour as they like.
The salmon kebab is a gem for pescatarians amidst the array of meat kebab options.
Those familiar with Persian cuisine will know that, like Central Asian and Middle Eastern food in general, it places a strong emphasis on meat. Not surprisingly, most of the main dishes at Shishlik Grill House are meat kebabs. As a pescatarian, I’m delighted to discover the salmon kebab — a dish that feels uniquely local, as Pacific salmon is among the finest of its kind.
And I’m not disappointed. Though it’s my first time trying fish kebab, the thick, cube-like salmon fillet is fresh, tender, and juicy. For the rice, I request a switch from plain basmati to Zereshk Polo (زرشکپلو), or barberry rice. For those who don’t know, Zereshk Polo combines fluffy basmati and fragrant saffron rice, topped with barberries. These tart berries, resembling precious rubies set in a piece of jewellery, add a delightful tang to the rice, elevating the entire culinary experience.
Iranian culture-inspired gold pendants are seen in the window of a jewellery shop on Lonsdale Avenue in North Vancouver.
After a satisfying meal, I continue exploring the Persian community along Lonsdale Avenue, passing by various shops, including a few jewellery stores selling gold pieces with Iranian-inspired designs.
I stop by Amir Bakery, where I pick up some taftoon (تافتون), a leavened flour bread from Iran. Then, I head to Laleh Bakery, a local favourite for traditional desserts and pastries, to grab some baklava for the flight later in the day.
A wide array of traditional Persian sweets and desserts is available at Laleh Bakery.
At Amir Bakery, you’ll find a variety of breads, including taftoon, all freshly baked and straight from the oven!
To truly immerse myself in the community, I stop by the Persia Foods Produce Market, where I find a variety of products imported from Iran — dried herbs, frozen goods, tea, dates, nuts, sweets, seasonings, and condiments. I end up buying dill seeds and sumac, thinking that while I can’t exactly bring a whole Persian restaurant to my home, at least I can add some Persian flavours to my daily meals.
If I had more time, I would’ve visited NIMA Book Store, the oldest Persian bookstore in Vancouver, which offers an extensive collection of books on Persian art, literature, and history. Unfortunately, I missed it this time, but it’s definitely on my list now.
Persia Foods Produce Market on Lonsdale Avenue offers a wide selection of ingredients, bringing the authentic taste of Iran to North Vancouver.
Tips for wanderer — see below for details on the restaurants and stores:
Shishlik Grill House | شیشلیک
1629 Lonsdale Ave, North Vancouver, BC V7M 2J5Amir Bakery
1929 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver, BC V7M 2K3Laleh Bakery
2041 Lonsdale Ave, North Vancouver, BC V7M2K4Persia Foods Produce Market
2011 Lonsdale Ave, North Vancouver, BC V7M 2K4(It turns out this market has several branches across Greater Vancouver)