Wander in Vancouver: Tasting Cultures from the Sea & Land
From wild Pacific salmon to South Indian dosas, Vancouver’s varied flavours take you on a culinary journey that celebrates its multiculturalism.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
At Sabà Bistro in Fort Langley, gravlax (dill-cured salmon) comes with fresh herb cream cheese and toast.
VANCOUVER, Canada — Vancouver is a multicultural hub where people from all corners of the world come together. Thanks to its long history of immigration, the city’s population is made up of individuals from diverse cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds, with communities from Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and beyond. According to a 2022 census, at least 190 languages are spoken in Vancouver.
Having spent most of my teenage years in Vancouver, it’s no surprise that many of my taste memories are tied to the city’s culinary scene, which is a reflection of its multiculturalism.
The all-you-can-eat Japanese barbecue lunches at Shabusen Yakiniku House were a weekend tradition for the family. Meanwhile, pho from a Vietnamese restaurant was the hearty and affordable option for students during the winter.
Frappuccinos and Timbits from Tim Hortons remind me of time spent hanging out with my mom before a trip to the shopping mall or Michael’s. And Taiwanese bubble tea was the ultimate indulgence, especially when I was out with friends.
On my recent trip to Vancouver, I took a walk down memory lane, hoping to reconnect with the flavours that shaped my past. But as a pescatarian with a mostly gluten-free diet, I find myself unable to visit many of my old favourite spots, even for the sake of nostalgia. Some of the places I used to go have also closed down.
This time, though, I returned as a different person — one who has experienced many more cultures during my time away. I thought to myself, why not document the meals I enjoyed, mixing old favourites with new discoveries?
Instead of following a typical journal format, I want to approach this from a cultural perspective. This isn’t just about my multicultural taste buds and love for exotic food, but also about Vancouver itself, a city that, as we all know, is a melting pot of cultures.
For those who are hungry and can’t wait to dig in:
Taste of Japan @Samurai Japanese Restaurant
Samurai Japanese Restaurant offers maki rolls you won’t find outside of Canada.
One thing I’m grateful for as a pescatarian is that I can continue to enjoy one of my favourite dishes: sushi.
I remember visiting Samurai Sushi on Fraser Street from time to time as a treat — something about knowing “it’s sushi day” always brightened my mood. This time, however, I visited their branch in Downtown Vancouver for the sake of convenience.
Those in Vancouver will know that sushi restaurants here are famous for their California roll, a popular uramaki filled with imitation crab stick, avocado, and cucumber, with the outer layer of rice often sprinkled with flying fish roe.
While California roll isn’t exclusive to Canada, the B.C. roll is a local creation. Short for British Columbia, the B.C. roll is an uramaki that contains barbecued salmon skin — often coated in a sweet sauce — and cucumber. It’s served in many sushi restaurants across the province and is credited to Vancouver-based Japanese chef Hidekazu Tojo, who invented it in 1974. Tojo used salmon skin to replace anago (saltwater eel), which was difficult to obtain on the West Coast.
I had no idea what to order before arriving at the restaurant. But as soon as I started reading through the items, my memory was stirred. Without hesitation, I went for my usual: the spicy tuna roll and chopped scallop roll. These two have always been my favourites, and I’m happy to say the taste hasn’t changed a bit!
The spicy tuna roll, mixed with spring onions, has the perfect balance of spice and soy (I wonder what kind of chili sauce they use). The chopped scallop roll, with mayo and flying fish roe, offers a mild and comforting flavour that contrasts with the stronger, spicier tuna.
I ended up returning for the same takeout order a few days later.
Taste of the Pacific Ocean
If you’re visiting Granville Island, stop by Longliner Seafoods to pick up some salmon nuggets or jerky — perfect for a quick and tasty treat on the go!
Anyone visiting the West Coast will inevitably encounter its abundant seafood, and Pacific salmon is a must-try!
I’ll admit — I wasn’t always a big fan of salmon before this trip. Having mostly eaten frozen salmon in the past, fresh salmon was a game-changer. That’s why, while I was in Vancouver, I had salmon almost every day — it just tastes different when it’s fresh.
For my first meal in Vancouver, I enjoyed spring salmon at Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House. Spring Chinook salmon, one of the largest Pacific salmon species, was grilled to perfection and served with a lemon herb beurre blanc, fresh vegetables, and roasted potatoes. In addition to salmon, Joe Fortes offers a variety of fish, including steelhead trout, ling cod, and arctic char, all hand-cut in-house.
While in Fort Langley, I had the chance to try the Smoked Salmon Board at Sabà Bistro, where I tasted gravlax for the first time. A Nordic dish, gravlax is dill-cured salmon, topped with red onions, dill, capers, and lemon slices for a refreshing finish. I particularly loved the fresh herb cream cheese, and gravlax pairs perfectly with gluten-free toast.
For a different take on salmon, I visited Granville Island Public Market, where Longliner Seafoods is known for offering the best fresh and smoked salmon in town. I highly recommend their Maple Syrup Glazed Candy Salmon Nuggets. While they may look dry, they’re actually incredibly juicy.
I also picked up their smoked salmon jerky, which has a dry, smoky flavour with a salty kick. It pairs wonderfully with beer or a glass of prosecco.
For those craving fish and chips, don’t miss your last chance at the Vancouver International Airport. At Papa Joe’s. I sampled every type of fish on the menu — except for salmon — including rock snapper, cod, and halibut. All of the fish are wild-caught from the Pacific Ocean, with the rock snapper being local.
Taste of India @Dosa Corner
At Dosa Corner, one of their specialties is the spinach dosa, served with chutney, sambar, and potato masala.
Paneer Pakora is a popular Indian snack, best enjoyed with mint-coriander or tamarind chutney.
This time around, I didn’t have the luxury of time to visit and compare all the South Indian restaurants to find the best dosa. But after browsing restaurant menus online, I decided to visit Dosa Corner.
I remember this part of Fraser Street used to have a large Indian community, but now it seems to have more Chinese restaurants. Some Indian restaurants even offer Chinese cuisine on their menus, which I find to be quite unexpected.
While Dosa Corner offers curries, I came specifically for the dosa. I ordered one of their specials: the spinach masala dosa, which is filled with spinach and a blend of special herbs.
I have to say — the spinach dosa is one of the best I’ve ever had. The chutney that comes with it, along with the potato masala I requested to be served separately (to ensure a crispy dosa), is just perfect.
In addition to the dosa, I also ordered Paneer Pakora — fried homemade cottage cheese covered in chickpea flour. I wanted to try this because it’s gluten-free, and to my surprise, dipping it into tamarind sauce reminded me of eating Chicken McNuggets.
McDonald’s chicken nuggets were my favourite snack and go-to comfort food before I switched to a pescatarian diet, and I was excited to find a delicious substitute that gave me the same level of satisfaction.
Like Komalas Vila Vegetarian Restaurant in Singapore, Dosa Corner is one of those rare places that offers authentic southern Indian dosa abroad. I wouldn’t mind returning the next day!
Taste of Lebanon @Nuba in Yaletown
At Nuba in Yaletown, the Feast of Dips is a great introduction to Lebanese cuisine for first-timers!
The falafel at Nuba is among the best I’ve had, with a perfectly crispy and crunchy crust.
It’s been a while since I last had halloumi, and this one didn’t disappoint me.
I’m no stranger to Lebanese food, but I certainly didn’t expect to find authentic Lebanese cuisine in Vancouver — yet I did! Just a few blocks from where I stayed, Nuba in Yaletown offers surprisingly authentic Lebanese dishes.
To gauge the authenticity of a Lebanese restaurant, I always start with their mezze and falafel. So, I ordered the Feast of Dips, which includes Nuba’s house-made hummus, jalapeno herb hummus, baba ghanouj, pomegranate sumac hummus, and Mama Dallou’ah. As usual, my favourite was the baba ghanouj with its smoky roasted aubergine. I was pleasantly surprised by the Mama Dallou’ah, which blends roasted red beets, pomegranate molasses, and a hint of lemon and spices.
As if this feast weren’t enough, I also tried their Garden Falafel. The falafels had a crispy, crunchy crust with a tangy interior, served with hummus and pickled red cabbage.
I also couldn’t resist the batata harra with toum — a Lebanese fried spicy potato dish that’s packed with flavour. By far, it’s the best potato dish I’ve ever had. The crispy potato dices pair perfectly with the toum, a garlic sauce common in the Levant.
Taste of Persia @Shishlik Grill House
Salmon kebabs are a rare find, but here in Vancouver — where salmon is abundant along the West Coast — it is a local specialty at Shishlik Grill House.
Ash Reshteh is a beloved Persian dish traditionally enjoyed during Norooz, the Persian New Year celebrations.
During my years in Vancouver, I rarely ventured across the harbour to North Vancouver, except for the occasional visit to the Capilano Suspension Bridge.
On my last day in town, however, I decided to make the trip. In addition to the attractions I had planned to visit, I was eager to dine at Shishlik Grill House, a Persian restaurant recommended by a Persian lady I had met earlier — and the journey was absolutely worth it.
I had only tried Persian food a few times — my first experience was in London over a decade ago. Though I’ve had some opportunities to try Persian cuisine since, my impression of it and its specialties has remained somewhat vague.
At Shishlik Grill House, I ordered Mirza Ghasemi, a grilled aubergine dip prepared with tomato and fried onions, topped with a boiled egg. Next, I tried Ash Reshteh, a hearty Persian noodle soup filled with fresh herbs and legumes. It was the greenest soup I’ve ever come across — with a strong dill flavour that reminded me of Shivit Oshii (dill noodles) I tried in Uzbekistan. I later learned that ash reshteh is a beloved dish, traditionally enjoyed during Norooz, the Persian New Year celebrations.
Anyone familiar with Persian food would know that, like many Central Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines, it centres around meat. As a pescatarian, I opted for the salmon kebab — a dish that’s unique to Vancouver.
For a more detailed account of this culinary experience, read my article “Wander in Vancouver: A Taste of Persian Culture”, where I share my journey through the Persian community in North Vancouver.
I’d also like to note that, whether by coincidence or not, I’ll be visiting an Iranian restaurant in Taipei tomorrow.