Wander in Vancouver: In Search of Indigenous Art
Curious about Vancouver’s Indigenous communities? Here’s my curated guide to the top destinations where First Nations’ visual culture and heritage come alive amidst the city’s urban spaces.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
At the Vancouver International Airport, passengers are greeted by Susan Point’s Flight upon arrival.
VANCOUVER, Canada — Visitors arriving in Vancouver, a city nestled on the west coast of British Columbia, will immediately notice the presence of Indigenous art.
If you’re arriving at Vancouver International Airport (YVR), one of the first sights to greet you — even before clearing customs — is Flight, a massive red cedar roundel. Created by leading Musqueam artist Susan Point, its shape was inspired by a traditional Coast Salish spindle whorl. It features an eagle, a powerful symbol, taking two men under its wings. With their arms raised, the men both welcome visitors and gesture toward flight. Their chests are adorned with salmon motifs, representing the Coast Salish people, who continue to live and fish along these shores. This art work, installed in the Welcome Area, is designed to convey the presence and greetings of the Musqueam people.
For those encountering Northwest Coast First Nations art for the first time, its bold, graphic strokes — reminiscent of pop art — can be striking. As you explore the city, you’ll notice a recurring sign — on streets, in parks, or at the entrances to buildings and museums — that reminds you of the land on which you stand:
“The City of Vancouver acknowledges that it is situated on the unceded traditional territories of the xʷməθkʷəy̓əm (Musqueam), Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), and səlilwətaɬ (Tsleil-Waututh) Nations.”
The Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh are three local First Nations in Vancouver, and together they form part of the larger Coast Salish group. This acknowledgment — that the ancestral territory on which we stand was never ceded or given up to the Crown — serves as a reminder for both locals and visitors that these Indigenous communities have always retained their jurisdiction and deep connection to the land.
The Pacific Northwest Coast was once home to some of the most densely populated Indigenous communities in Canada. Today, British Columbia is home to 204 First Nations communities, each with its own distinct history, culture, beliefs, traditions, and practices. In anthropology, the term “Northwest Coast” refers to the Indigenous peoples residing along the coast of what is now British Columbia, as well as parts of Washington, Alaska, Oregon, and Northern California.
Having grown up in Vancouver, I’m deeply familiar with the city’s Indigenous art and culture. As an arts and culture enthusiast, I’ve always been fascinated by the creative expressions of these communities, whose bold use of colour and crest symbols whisper stories from myths and — tales that never lose their magic.
Following a recent visit, I’ve put together a list of places for those interested in exploring Indigenous art in what is now Metro Vancouver. From private galleries to museums and public spaces, each destination offers a unique perspective on the culture and heritage of the First Nations.
Fly me there:
Totem Poles at Brockton Point, Stanley Park
This group of totem poles, nestled in Stanley Park, invites us to reimagine the original contexts in which these poles would have stood.
Totem poles are perhaps the most iconic symbols of the Indigenous tribes along the Northwest Coast. Carved from large trees — mainly red cedar — these poles are adorned with symbols that commemorate ancestors, recount legends, depict clan lineages, or highlight significant events; in other words, they convey narratives that are deeply meaningful to the communities who carve and display them.
Contrary to popular belief, totem poles are not objects of worship. Some serve practical functions, such as architectural features or welcome signs for village visitors.
If you’re visiting Stanley Park, be sure to stop by the Totem Poles at Brockton Point (spapəy̓əq), an area that remained home to Musqueam families until the early 1900s.
Here, you’ll find a total of seven totem poles standing. Despite being outdoors, these totem poles — having withstood the test of time and elements — are in surprisingly good condition. Each pole is accompanied by a text that explains the story and symbolism of its carvings, helping viewers better understand what they’re seeing.
This collection of totem poles dates back to the 1920s, when the Vancouver Parks Board acquired them with the intention of building a First Nations village.
Nearby, you’ll find At the Totem Poles, a gift shop selling an array of Indigenous-inspired designs and locally made trinkets. In my view, this is by far the best shop of its kind in town, offering the most complete and authentic selection of Indigenous souvenirs. I highly recommend taking home a piece of Indigenous art or craft as a token of memory!
If you have time, take a stroll through the park towards Lumberman’s Arch (χʷay̓χʷəy̓), the site of a former Musqueam village that once housed longhouses and hundreds of ancestors. As you walk past the forest of towering trees, it’s easy to feel a connection to the area’s history and its importance as a spiritual site for the Musqueam.
Time needed: less than 1 hour
Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art
The Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art is the only public gallery in Canada dedicated to contemporary Indigenous art of the Northwest Coast.
For those learning about Indigenous art of Northwest Coast, you’ve probably heard of Bill Reid (1920-1998).
Born in Victoria, British Columbia, to a Haida mother, Reid began reconnecting with his Haida roots in his early twenties — a lifelong journey that would later shape his artistic career.
The Haida are an Indigenous group traditionally residing on Haida Gwaii — also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands — in British Columbia. With a rich cultural heritage, the Haida craftsmen excel in artistic traditions, such as pole carving and jewellery making.
Reid was a multidisciplinary artist who, through his sculptures, prints, and jewellery, brought public attention to the art and culture of the Haida people. By infusing modern aesthetics into traditional Haida elements, Reid crafted a legacy that continues to inspire the city’s Indigenous art today.
In 2008, the Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art was founded to honour his legacy and celebrate the Indigenous cultures of the Northwest Coast. The gallery showcases a rich collection of Reid’s work, alongside contemporary works of art created by other Indigenous artists.
A hidden gem in the heart of Downtown Vancouver, the Bill Reid Gallery is a must-visit for those eager to explore Reid’s creations. Here, you’ll see how his works continue to engage and interact with contemporary Indigenous art scene — not to mention that it also offers a quick retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Time needed: at least 1 hour
Museum of Anthropology (MOA) at UBC
The Museum of Anthropology at University of British Columbia is a treasure trove of artefacts, showcasing not only the rich cultures of Indigenous communities along the Northwest Coast but also civilisations from around the globe.
Nestled on the University of British Columbia (UBC) campus, the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) is home to nearly 50,000 artefacts from across the globe.
The MOA is particularly famous for its Northwest Coast collections, showcased in both the Great Hall and the museum’s Multiversity Galleries. In the Great Hall, you’ll find larger artefacts, such as totem poles, bent boxes, canoes, and sculptures. The Multiversity Galleries feature utilitarian objects like baskets, vessels, and weavings, each displayed according to the Indigenous communities they represent.
For those seeking more of Bill Reid’s work, the Bill Reid Rotunda houses one of the finest collections of the Haida artist’s creations. Among the highlights is Reid’s famous sculpture, The Raven and the First Men, which depicts a pivotal moment in Haida mythology when Raven discovered the first humans in a clamshell on the beach. Carved from a massive block of yellow cedar, it’s a must-see. Surrounding the sculpture are display cases featuring Reid’s jewellery creations.
Since its founding in 1949, the MOA has amassed a collection where half of the items come from Asia and Oceania, with significant works representing the Arctic, Latin America, and Europe. Its extensive research collections are so vast that visitors could spend days exploring them.
What I find fascinating is the on-going exhibition, In a Different Light, at the Elspeth McConnell Gallery of Northwest Coast Masterworks. This exhibit features over 110 historical Indigenous artworks and objects, accompanied by contemporary reflections from First Nations artists and communities, shard through recorded voices. This curatorial approach connects historical artefacts with the present, offering resonance for modern audience, especially non-Indigenous viewers, seeking to understand the relevance of these works in urban society.
By reconnecting these objects with contemporary Indigenous communities, In a Different Light encourages us to see them in a new context — shedding light on both the past and present, and offering us a chance to envision the future of Northwest Coast Indigenous cultures.
Time needed: at least 3 hours
Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery
Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery is a must-visit for anyone looking to enrich their collection with Indigenous art.
Located in historic Gastown, the Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery stands as Vancouver’s premier destination for First Nations art.
Founded in 1996, the gallery, spanning two floors, showcases artworks from Indigenous communities across British Columbia’s Northwest Coast, as well as the Inuit communities of Canada’s Arctic regions. These works were created by both master carvers and emerging talent.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a curious first-time visitor, the gallery offers a kaleidoscopic view of Indigenous art, showcasing how Indigenous elements can be expressed across a range of mediums and forms. From totem poles and ceremonial masks to bowls, rattles, bentwood boxes, woven baskets, canoe paddles, paintings, prints, and stone sculptures, there’s something for everyone.
The gallery also features one of the finest collections of First Nations jewellery in the city, crafted from gold and sterling silver. With its expansive collection, Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery feels like a mini museum of anthropology in its own right.
One of my personal favourites is browsing through the selection of book and literatures available for purchase. I picked up two reads: Understanding Northwest Coast Art by Cheryl Shearar and Cedar: Tree of Life to the Northwest Coast Indians by Hilary Stewart, both of which I’m excited to dive into.
A helpful tip for wanderers: Coastal Peoples is just across the street from Gastown’s famous steam clock!
Time needed: less than 1 hour
Inuit Gallery of Vancouver
Though compact, the Inuit Gallery of Vancouver offers a diverse array of art by Indigenous artists, appealing to both collectors and visitors alike.
The Inuit Gallery of Vancouver has a rich collection of museum-quality masterworks from the Inuit and Northwest Coast First Nations, among others. Founded in 1979, the gallery was originally in Gastown before its recent relocation to North Vancouver.
I visited the Inuit Gallery on my last day in town, when I took my trip to North Vancouver. While it may be smaller than the Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery, it offers everything you’d expect from Indigenous art — stone carvings, wood carvings, masks, canoe paddles, prints, jewellery, and more.
Among the pieces on display, I was particularly drawn to the crane carvings. What fascinated me wasn’t just the subject, but the material used to create them. I was told that these works by Buddy Alikamik, an Ulukhaktok artist from the west coast of Victoria Island, are carved from Muskox horn.
The Inuit Gallery of Vancouver is located just across the street from the Polygon Gallery, Canada’s leading contemporary art gallery in photography. Before you leave the area, be sure to check out the Lonsdale Quay Market next door, a public market with a great selection of local eateries.
Time needed: less than 30 minutes
Vancouver International Airport
Bill Reid’s The Spirit of Haida Gwaii: The Jade Canoe is found inside Vancouver International Airport, near the International Departure area.
Even before leaving Vancouver, you’ll come across a remarkable selection of Indigenous art at Vancouver International Airport (YVR).
As one of Canada’s busiest airports, YVR seeks to immerse travellers in the local culture, particularly through its Indigenous art. This is part of its award-winning Sense of Place initiative, which reflects the region’s cultural landscapes through art and architecture inspired by its land, sea, and sky.
One unforgettable piece for me is Bill Reid’s six-ton bronze sculpture, The Spirit of Haida Gwaii: The Jade Canoe. Inspired by 19th-century miniature canoes carved from argillite — a black sedimentary stone mined on Haida Gwaii — the sculpture depicts a canoe filled with crest figures and mythical creatures, travelling toward an unknown destination. This theme of journey, explored by Reid in an accompanying poem he wrote, is particularly fitting for a busy airport like YVR.
While it’s not my first time seeing art displayed in an airport, YVR is unique in its commitment to commissioning and exhibiting works by Indigenous artists. Through figurative sculptures, silkscreen prints, copper panels, transformative masks, and mesmerising totem poles, the airport celebrates the wealth of the region’s Indigenous heritage.
It’s only upon departure when I realise why I’ve felt so drawn to Indigenous art. Like other Indigenous cultures, legends and mythology are central to the worldview of the Northwest Coast First Nations. These stories often recount tales of creation, alongside encounters with supernatural forces. Such narrative forms the foundation of their creative expression, lending their art a depth that, in my view, is often missing in much of contemporary art today.
Time needed: you have until your boarding time
Reference:
Laurence, R. (2015). A Sense of Place: Art at Vancouver International Airport. Figure 1 Publishing.
Vancouver Heritage Foundation. Discover Heritage — Indigenous Heritage. https://www.vancouverheritagefoundation.org/discover-heritage/indigenous-heritage/