Wander in India: Fatehpur Sikri

Just an hour’s drive from Agra lies Fatehpur Sikri — a fleeting palace city that embodies the zenith of artisanal ingenuity of the Mughal Empire.

Sense of Wander: ★★★★★

Panchmahal, or the “Five-Level Palace,” with its design reminiscent of a Buddhist monastery, stands out among the other buildings in the imperial complex of Fatehpur Sikri.

FATEHPUR SIKRI, India — “You can’t miss Fatehpur Sikri when you’re in India!” a friend insisted before my trip. Thanks to her warm reminder, I made sure to include it in my itinerary (for more, read out my Wander in India series).

Just an hour’s drive from Agra, the City of Love, lies Fatehpur Sikri — a palace city that represents the height of artisanal ingenuity during the reign of Akbar, one of the greatest emperors of the Mughal Empire (1526-1761).

I first learned about Fatehpur Sikri while studying Indian art history during my postgraduate studies. My initial impression was that it was yet another royal complex built from Rajasthani sandstone. The earthy tones made it seem as if the city had emerged naturally from the earth itself, while rusty red hues etched in stones like the wrinkles of time.

This remarkable site, which I might have forgotten if not for a friend’s reminder, left a lasting impression on me. What makes Fatehpur Sikri so special? Read on, and I’ll share my discoveries with you.

Facing the Diwan-i Khas stands Ankh Michauli, the royal treasury of the Mughal Empire in the capital city of Fatehpur Sikri.

History bits of Fatehpur Sikri

In 1571, Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great (reigned 1556-1605) made a bold decision to move the capital from Agra to Sikri, commissioning the construction of an entirely new city. Despite the immense effort, this city was abandoned just 14 years later.

The name of this new capital was derived from a village called Sikri that once occupied the site. Akbar’s son, Jahangir — who would later succeed him as emperor from 1605 to 1627 — was born in this village, but it wasn’t until Akbar began building a walled city and imperial palace that Sikri transformed into a grand capital.

But if the city was fated to be so short-lived, why build it — from scratch — in the first place?

Before Fatehpur Sikri, Agra stood as the stronghold of an expanding Mughal Empire, both politically and militarily. From Agra, Akbar led conquests across Rajasthan, captured Gondwana in central India, subdued Kangra in the Himalayan region, and advanced into the Deccan, all while striving to establish control over eastern India.

As the empire expanded, it absorbed people from diverse cultures and polities. Akbar faced the challenge of integrating these groups into the empire, balancing the inclusion of various cultural practices with the conservative Islamic clerics who resisted any deviation from established norms.

Sikri symbolised the beginning of a more inclusive and mature empire, where religious beliefs broadened. It was here that Akbar began engaging in discussions with representatives of different faiths, including Muslims, Hindus, Jains, Christians, and Zoroastrians. In this new capital, Akbar introduced the policy of Sulh-i kul, meaning “universal peace” or “peace with all.”

Following Akbar’s victorious Gujarat campaign in 1573, the city earned the name Fatehpur Sikri, meaning “City of Victory.”

Inside Jodha Bai Mahal, the largest palace in Fatehpur Sikri, commissioned for Akbar’s favourite queen consort, Mariam-uz-Zamani, commonly known as Jodha Bai.

Fatehpur Sikri’s Architectural styles

Fatehpur Sikri marks the Mughals; first ambitious attempt to create an entirely new city from scratch, whose architectural features were later adopted to other monuments.

Visitors to this palatial city are immediately struck by its visual harmony, achieved through the predominant use of the “trabeate” system — a method of construction relying exclusively on beams or lintels.

Historians describe Fatehpur Sikri as a fusion of various architectural styles, blending Timurid, Gujarati, Rajasthani, Gwalior, Malwa, and other regional influences from areas annexed into the empire at the time. Despite this eclectic mix, the consistent use of red sandstone serves as a unifying agent, merging these diverse designs.

Fatehpur Sikri is divided into two complexes — the imperial and the masjid-dargah — symbolising the coexistence of two power centres: the political and the spiritual. Unfortunately, my visit allowed me only enough time to explore the imperial complex, which offered a glimpse into the public and private lives of the Mughals during Akbar’s reign.

The facade of the Diwan-i-Khas creates the illusion of a two-storey building, though it is actually a single, vaulted chamber.

Inside the Diwan-i-Khas, this intricately carved pillar leaves its beholders in awe.

What not to miss at Fatehpur Sikri?

1. The Diwan-i-Khas

As you step into the royal complex, you’ll be greeted by the Diwan-i-Khas, or Hall of Private Audience. Though its exterior might not impress, don’t let its modest appearance deceive you. From the outside, Diwan-i-Khas may seem like a two-story building, but inside, it’s just a single, vaulted chamber.

At the heart of this square chamber stands a colossal, intricately carved pillar. This pillar supports a central platform suspended in the air, which served as the emperor’s seat. Four bridges extend diagonally across the chamber, reaching out to the cardinal directions.

While the exact function of this structure remains elusive, historians believe that the central platform was where the emperor would inspect jewels and gems while engaging with ministers seated at the corners. Some even suggest that the building may have functioned as a storehouse for gems and jewellery, given its proximity to Ankh Michauli, the royal treasury, next door.

Historians have suggested that the central platform is where the emperor would inspect the imperial jewels and gems, attended to the ministers seated at the corners. In fact, some have suggested the building itself was used as a storehouse for gems and jewellery, due to its proximity to Ankh Michauli or the treasury for gold and silver and, according to Abul Fazl, one of Akbar’s favourite courtiers, , Akbar had three treasuries that were close to each other.

Initially, I mistook the central pillar’s dense ornamentation for carved wood. It wasn’t until I examined it up close that I realised it was sculpted from sandstone. The underside of the platform, adorned with deep, corbel-like carvings arranged in concentric circles, is particularly striking. Below it, neat chevron patterns and floral designs reflect a blend of Mughal and regional aesthetics.

Ram Nath, an Indian historian who specialises in Mughal architecture, has observed that Fatehpur Sikri showcases a systematic integration of regional and local influences into imperial art. In particular, artisans from newly annexed regions, such as Malwa, Gujarat, and Rajasthan, were adept at translating wooden forms into stone, capturing the aesthetic details of wooden structures with remarkable skill.

You might think this is the pinnacle of artisanal brilliance from Akbar’s reign, but wait until you see what the Turkish Sultanas House has to offer.

Each pillar of the verandah features a unique design, rendering every architectural element a work of art in its own right.

2. Turkish Sultanas House

A short walk from the Diwan-i-Khas leads you to the Turkish Sultanas House, a pavilion that took my breath away the moment I saw it. Why? Because every inch of its surface is adorned with intricate carvings, turning the building into an exquisite jewel box.

The Turkish Sultanas House, essentially a pavilion perched on square piers, connects to the Khwabgah complex through a colonnaded verandah.

Each stone slab of the pavilion is meticulously carved with designs, from the arabesques on the verandah’s pillars to the garden and forest scenes depicted on the dado panels. The interplay of naturalistic floral patterns with geometric shapes such as chevrons, multi-pointed stars, and swastikas creates a fascinating fusion of artistic elements.

Constructed from fine-quality red sandstone, Fatehpur Sikri benefits from the stone’s malleability, which allows for delicate, detailed carving. As Abul Fazl, who served as grand vizier of the Mughal Empire between 1579 and 1602, noted, “clever workmen chisel it more skillfully than any turner could do with wood.”

But what does “Turkish” have to do with this pavilion? Some believe it was home to Akbar’s two Turkish queens, Salima Sultan Begum and Ruqayya Begum. However, the building’s small size suggests it was unlikely a residence. It is more likely a pleasure pavilion used by the Turkish queens.

On the walls of the Turkish Sultanas House, a dynamic interplay of geometric and arabesque designs creates a stunning visual fusion of artistic elements.

The malleability of red sandstone turns every inch of its surface into a canvas for artistic imagination.

Although visitors are not allowed inside the Turkish Sultanas House, it’s easy to see from the outside that the building’s interior is densely adorned with intricate patterns and designs.

The ceiling of the Turkish Sultanas House exemplifies the exceptional craftsmanship in stone carving achieved during Akbar’s reign.

3. Pachisi Courtyard

While wandering through Fatehpur Sikri’s imperial complex, you can’t miss the courtyard that stretches between the Diwan-i-Khas and the beautiful pool in front of the Khwabgah. This courtyard, known as “Pachisi,” is named after the cruciform board used for this popular Indian board game.

Legend has it that the game was played with live pieces, where slave girls were used as the player tokens.

4. Khwabgah

Khwabgah, or the Dream Palace, was conceived for the emperor’s personal use. Inside, there’s a room for the emperor to hold meetings with his ministers, a Kutub Khana or personal library (one of Akbar’s courtier Abul Fazl stated that there were about 25,000 manuscripts in the library), a bathroom, and a bedroom.

The Khwabgah has a screened corridor that connects Khwabgah with the imperial harem, so that the ladies from the harem could join the emperor when desired. The complex was also connected to the Daftar Khana, or the offices, of the royal complex.

A view of Khwabgah, also known as the “Dream Palace,” built for Akbar’s personal use.

A side view of the two-storey Khwabgah reveals the use of the “trabeate” system — a construction method that relies exclusively on beams or lintels.

Inside the royal bedroom is this raised stone platform — a king size bed — where Akbar would have slept.

5. Jodha Bai’s Palace

At Fatehpur Sikri, the imperial haram complex comprises the principal Haramsara, commonly referred to as “Jodha Bai’s Palace,” and Birbal’s House. The Haramsara was the zenana, the private quarters reserved for women of the royal household.

Constructed in 1569, Jodha Bai Mahal is traditionally said to have been built by Akbar for his favourite queen consort, Jodha Bai, a misnomer for Mariam Zamani, the mother of Jahangir. However, this name appears nowhere in Akbarnama or other Mughal records, leading historians to dismiss it as a fictional character invented by local guides.

The palace, built around a vast courtyard, stands as the largest in the imperial haram complex. But its true scale becomes evident only when you step inside —the sheer expanse of its open-air courtyard, accentuated by a tulsi tree in the centre, can only be experienced in person.

Akbar is believed to have had several wives from different faiths — Muslims, Hindus, and possibly even a Christian — likely as part of political alliances. He is said to have allowed them to practice their own religions religions within the harem complex, embodying the spirit of “universal peace.”

Entrance to Jodha Bai’s Palace, the grandest of all the residential palaces in the imperial harem complex at Fatehpur Sikri.

Fatehpur Sikri after Akbar’s departure

Today, as visitors wander through the deserted buildings of Fatehpur Sikri, it may be difficult to imagine the peak of this former capital, when the palaces were alive with the presence of the royal household, and the courtyards and pavilions echoed with laughter and entertainment.

Following the death of Akbar’s half-brother Mirza Hakim in 1585, political instability arose in the northwest of the Mughal Empire, prompting Akbar to relocate the capital from Fatehpur Sikri back to Agra. This shift was crucial for addressing unrest in the Deccan region, as Agra offered a more strategic position.

After Akbar’s move to Lahore in 1589, Fatehpur Sikri became a mercantile town known for carpet-making and indigo dye production, while serving as a pilgrimage destination for Salim Chishti’s tomb.

For anyone planning to visit Fatehpur Sikri, I highly recommend spending a full day exploring both the imperial and masjid complexes. It’s truly worthwhile, as it will offer you a glimpse into the grandeur of the two main power centres — political and spiritual — during Akbar’s reign.

Oh, and make sure to take full advantage of the freedom to explore the buildings inside out as if they were your own palaces, while it’s still allowed.

Reference:

Sinha, S. (2021). Delhi, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri: Monuments, Cities and Connected Histories. Pan Macmillan.