Wander in India: in the Footsteps of the Mughals
Join me as I journey in North India, tracing the footsteps of the Mughals who left behind a rich cultural legacy through their architectural wonders.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
Beautiful view of the Taj Mahal from the Red Fort in Agra
DELHI, India — I first learned about the Mughals during my postgraduate studies in Indian art history, where I was captivated by the wealth of material culture they’ve left behind. This includes architecture, miniature paintings, calligraphy, textiles, metalworks, jewellery, and gemstones, most notably the Koh-i-Noor diamond.
Founded by Babur in 1526, the Mughal dynasty (1526–1857) emerged from Central Asia. Babur, a descendant of Timur on his father’s side and Genghis Khan on his mother’s side, combined the military prowess and administrative acumen of these great conquerors. He laid the foundation for a dynasty that blended Persian, Islamic, and Indian influences, traces of which are still visible across the Indian subcontinent today.
During my recent visit to India, I traced the footsteps of the Mughal emperors, exploring grand fortresses, majestic tombs, Persian-inspired gardens, and bustling bazaars.
Coming face to face with the Mughal ideals and aesthetics — made eternal in stones and marbles — was deeply moving. I then came to the realisation that these architectures can only be appreciated in person — by seeing it with one’s own eyes, walking through their corridors, gazing out from their balconies, and touching the intricate inlay work crafted by nameless artisans.
One of the fascinating aspects of Mughal rule was the periodic shift of their capitals. From the early days in Agra, where the iconic Taj Mahal stands as a testament to Shah Jahan’s artistic vision, to the majestic city of Fatehpur Sikri built by Akbar, and finally to the bustling grandeur of Delhi, each capital tells a story of ambition, expansion, and adaptation.
Read on and join me in the footsteps of the Mughals. Whether you’re a history buff or a curious backpacker about to embark on your own journey, these destinations will captivate your imagination and deepen your appreciation for the rich legacy of Mughal India. Their presence, hidden in plain sight within the diverse cultural fabric of today’s Indian subcontinent, left me profoundly moved, and I believe it’ll do the same for you.
So our journey begins…
To truly understand who the Mughals were and how they established such extensive rule across the Indian subcontinent for over three centuries, we must step back in time.
Babur (reigned 1526-1530), with his illustrious ancestry rooted in the Timurid and Mongol empires, founded the Mughal Empire. His victory at the Battle of Panipat in 1526 marked the establishment of Mughal rule in India, bringing with him a rich cultural heritage.
His memoirs, the Baburnama, reveal a keen interest in nature, poetry, and architecture, reflecting a ruler who valued both conquest and culture. This probably paved the way for the rich cultural and political landscape that his descendants would further develop.
While Babur’s architectural footprint in India may not be as prominent as that of his successors, he is known to have built the Ram Bagh (originally called Aram Bagh, meaning “Garden of Rest”) in Agra, which is India’s oldest Mughal garden.
Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi
The second Mughal Emperor, Humayun (reigned 1530—1540; 1555-1556), played a crucial role in consolidating the foundation of the Mughal Empire. Succeeding his father, Babur, Humayun faced numerous challenges, including battles with regional rulers and internal strife. Despite a temporary loss of his kingdom to Sher Shah Suri, Humayun’s resilience and strategic alliances allowed him to reclaim his throne in 1555, only to die a year later.
Humayun’s legacy is marked by the magnificent Humayun’s Tomb in the heart of Delhi. Commissioned by his widow, Empress Bega Begum, and completed in 1572, this grand mausoleum holds special significance as the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent, setting the precedent for later Mughal monuments such as the Taj Mahal.
The mausoleum, with its irregular octagon plan, stands on a high platform. To reach it, one must pass through the Persian-inspired charbagh, a four-quadrant garden representing the four rivers of Paradise mentioned in the Quran.
This architectural marvel is clad in red sandstone, accentuated by white and black marble inlays. The grand dome, glazed with ceramic tiles, conjures the image of being covered in snow. While walking inside the mausoleum, one can’t help but be amazed by the symmetry of the monument and the precision of its architectural details.
Despite subsequent shifts of the Mughal capital, Humayun’s Tomb remains an iconic landmark and is now a listed UNESCO World Heritage site.
Humayun’s Tomb is also referred to as the “dormitory of the Mughals” as it is known to house over 150 Mughal family members.
Red Fort in Agra
In 1558, Agra was established as the Mughal capital by Emperor Akbar (reigned 1556-1605), the third ruler of the Mughal Empire.
Also known as the “Agra Fort,” the Red Fort was built between 1565 and 1573, and served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors until the capital was shifted to Delhi.
With a strategic position overlooking the Yamuna River, this imperial city was constructed in red sandstone and enclosed within walls that stretch over 2.5 kilometres.
Stepping into the Red Fort, my attention is immediately caught by the ancient mosaic decoration adorning its gate. These glazed tiles, pieced together to form a myriad of kaleidoscopic-like floral and geometric patterns, have a colour scheme similar to those seen in Timurid architecture in Central Asia.
The Red Fort, though initiated by Akbar, was further expanded by his successors. This imposing symbol of Mughal prowess encompasses palaces, mosques, and audience halls, all adorned with intricate marble inlay. The fortress is so vast that it’s impossible not to draw parallels between its grand scale and the imperial might of the Mughal Empire. One could easily lose his or her way inside this royal residence without a guide.
Among the many architectures I’ve visited in North India, the Red Fort in Agra remains at the top of my list. The rich histories, stories, and intricate architectural details enclosed within the fortress walls deserve a dedicated exploration, which I hope to fully articulate in another article soon.
Fatehpur Sikri in Agra
In 1571, Akbar moved the capital to Fatehpur Sikri, a city he ordered to be built from scratch, only to abandon it 14 years later due to water shortages and political considerations.
Though short-lived, Fatehpur Sikri is a destination not to be missed for history and heritage enthusiasts. It stands apart not only for its historical significance but also for its unique architectural wonders that are unlike anything you’ve seen before.
Fatehpur Sikri blends Persian, Indian, and Islamic styles, epitomises Akbar’s vision of cultural synthesis. Among its architectural marvels, the central pillar of Diwan-i-Khas exhibits the artistic prowess of Akbar’s reign. Carved from a single block of stone, this intricate and highly ornate column supports a platform where the emperor held private audiences with courtiers and dignitaries.
Another remarkable sight is the Pavilion of the Turkish Sultana, whose walls are meticulously carved with a plethora of designs and patterns. Personally, witnessing stone carving reach such a high level of intricacy is a truly mind-blowing experience. It makes me appreciate Akbar’s innovative architectural experiments and patronage of the arts, leaving me with a profound sense of awe and admiration for human creativity.
The Mughal Empire emerged from a rich tapestry of cultures, extending its influence to encompass various facets of society. Under Akbar’s rule, elements from Islam, Hinduism, Christianity, and Zoroastrianism were integrated into a new syncretic faith known as “Din-i Ilahi,” aimed at fostering tolerance and unity. Urdu, a language blending Persian, Arabic, Turkish, and Indian elements, also emerged as a lingua franca that continues to be spoken today.
Tomb of Akbar in Agra
After visiting Fatephur Sikri, we’ll be making a brief stop at the Tomb of Akbar, just an hour’s drive away in Sikandra.
The Tomb of Akbar, built in commemoration of the third and greatest Mughal emperor, was commissioned by his son, Jahangir (reigned 1605-1627).
Similar to navigating your way to the Tomb of Humayun, this royal mausoleum also includes a monumental gateway leading to a vast garden enclosure. In my view, the Tomb of Akbar highlights some of the finest marble inlay work in Mughal architecture.
The white marble inlays, demonstrating the Mughal mastery of geometric patterns and floral motifs, contrast vividly against the red sandstone backdrop, embodying the distinctive aesthetics of the Mughal Empire.
I particularly admire the architecture’s decorative details, such as the Quranic calligraphy and inscriptions celebrating the emperor’s achievements, highlighting the monument’s spiritual and political importance.
Taj Mahal in Agra
The Taj Mahal, one of the most celebrated legacies of the Mughal era, was commissioned by Shah Jahan (reigned 1628-1658) in 1631 to commemorate his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who tragically passed away while giving birth to their 14th child. The name “Taj Mahal,” of Urdu origin, translates to “crown palace.”
Visitors to the Taj Mahal are immediately struck by its impeccable symmetry in white marble and the intricate craftsmanship of its stone inlay work, which features Arabic calligraphy and vegetal designs.
Today, this enduring symbol of love continues to attract millions each year, drawing visitors from around the world to marvel at its unparalleled beauty and to hear the romantic tale behind its creation.
Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula in Agra
It’s impossible to discuss the Taj Mahal without mentioning the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula, often regarded as the precursor to this architectural wonder.
Known as the “Jewel Box” or the “Baby Taj,” this mausoleum was commissioned by Nur Jahan, the wife of Emperor Jahangir, in honour of her father, Mirza Ghiyas Beg.
Constructed between 1622 and 1628, Itmad-ud-Daula’s Tomb represents a significant evolution in Mughal architecture. Its intricate marble inlay work and delicate designs foreshadow the grandeur that later defined the Taj Mahal.
In my article Legacy in Stones: Mughal Inlay Art as Treasured Indian Craft, I expressed a deeper admiration for the Baby Taj compared to the Taj Mahal due to its exquisite craftsmanship. For enthusiasts of inlay art, it’s easy to lose track of time while exploring the intricate details adorning almost every inch of its exterior and interior surfaces.
Jama Mosque in Agra
While Shah Jahan is renowned for having created the eternal symbol of love, his eldest daughter, Jahanara Begum, left her mark by commissioning the Jama Mosque.
Located in the heart of Agra, the Jama Mosque, also known as the Jama Masjid, stands as a testament to devotion. Completed in 1648, the mosque is just a short rickshaw ride away from Agra’s Red Fort.
In my view, the Jama Mosque is worth visiting for its display of artisanal excellence. Constructed primarily from red sandstone, the mosque’s exterior facade is inlaid with white marble and black hardstone, creating striking yet harmonious geometric designs.
Verses from the Quran run along the facade surrounding the central arch, reminiscent of the Taj Mahal, where the holy text is brought to life through meticulous craftsmanship.
One remarkable feature of Jama Mosque is its use of chevron patterns, particularly on its dome. I mus remind you that the dome’s concave surface, rather than a flat one, would’ve required an astounding level of skill to achieve such precision and detail!
Red Fort in Delhi
In 1638, Shah Jahan moved the capital to Shahjahanabad, now known as Old Delhi. In this new capital, a grand fortress — the Red Fort — was constructed and served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors for nearly two centuries.
Similar to its counterpart in Agra, the Red Fort in Delhi boasts an impressive wall of red sandstone that stretches over two kilometres. From the majestic Lahori Gate to the Diwan-i-Khas (“Hall of Private Audience”), the fort’s symmetrical layout and architectural design displays a quintessential blend of Persian, Islamic, and Indian influences.
A notable feature of the Diwan-i-Khas was the gem-encrusted Peacock Throne, a symbol of the empire’s grandeur and wealth. The hall’s ceiling was originally silver-plated, which would shimmer when lit by the candles at night, adding to its splendour. However, over time, much of its former opulence has faded due to centuries of invasions and colonialism.
While exploring the Red Fort, I found myself reflecting on its glorious past; I recalled the Persian inscription inside the Diwan-i-Khas that reads, “If there be a paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this.”
Jama Masjid in Delhi
Shah Jahan’s architectural legacy extends beyond the Red Fort to include the Jama Masjid in Delhi.
Crafted from red sandstone and white marble, this grand mosque ranks among India’s largest. Its vast courtyard, bordered by towering minarets and crowned with three imposing domes, embodies the symmetry and splendour typical of Mughal architecture, establishing its as a prominent cultural and historical landmark in Delhi.
The Jama Masjid, capable of accommodating thousands of worshippers, showcases finely carved marble mihrab (prayer niche) that contrasts beautifully with the mosque’s red sandstone structure. This blend, as seen in architectural marvels in Agra, is emblematic of Mughal artistic excellence and aesthetics.
Nestled next to Delhi’s bustling Chandni Chowk, the Jama Masjid not only serves as a hub of religious and social gatherings but also stands as a sanctuary, offering solace amidst the vibrant markets nearby.
“These cultural legacies, whether serving as the ceremonial, political, or religious heart of the Mughal Empire, stand as enduring witnesses to its zenith in Indian history.”
And the journey continues…
From Agra to Fatehpur Sikri and Delhi, we’ve traced the glory of the Mughal Empire through its architectural legacy.
These cultural legacies, whether serving as the ceremonial, political, or religious heart of the Mughal Empire, stand as enduring witnesses to its zenith in Indian history.
For modern travelers like us who are fortunate enough to briefly step into these historical capsules, envisioning their unparalleled beauty in their prime is awe-inspiring.
The vision for these grand architectures, alongside the pursuit of perfection in craftsmanship, inspires generations to come, showcasing human creativity, ingenuity, and the pinnacle of artistic achievement. Yet, we’re also humbled by the fleeting nature of human accomplishments and the inexorable passage of time, which prompts us to reflect on our current place in history.